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Used photogrammetry to get the mockup rear knuckle on a computer. I didn't do a good enough job to get a really clean model out of it but it gave me a decent starting point. Measured all the hole locations later to make them accurate. Designed this in CAD to make it as boxed in / gusseted as possible but not super heavy. Stock rear knuckle bare is nine pounds, this one should be about 14 pounds. I think it will be a lot stronger. The main point though is to get bolt on wheel bearings (same as front). Also with some diff stub adapters we can use the big female front CV axles which are stronger and we won't have to carry as many spares. It's also designed to use the same front rotors we normally use and a caliper with a lever for parking brake. Z is going to 3D print a couple so we can test fit them before making them out of steel.

There is an electronics box in the system. What it does is monitor the sensor above the compressor pulley, and the pressure limit switches. There is also a thermostat switch in the evaporator. All of these are involved with allowing the compressor clutch ro be energized. Make sure it's getting 12V first. Probably be good to find the schematics also.

The way I've seen a few done is with aluminum blocks machined to go between the manifold.and the head. Routs the coolant to hoses, the intake port passes through.

Probably best to be familiar with the diagnostic mode of the Auto A/C, so some tests can be run when it's acting up.

apparently the heat worked fine this morning, he took his car to work.. but, not quite as cold either. I suggested that he not turn the fan on full blast right away, and make sure the fresh air intake was set to recirculate when it is that cold, lol so... this seems to be resolved for the time being..

Final update, got this thing totally sorted out. I got the WGDS working finally, but in the end eliminated it. First a big thanks to all who posted here to help me get it done. You guys definitely helped me quite a bit. So now to the solution. First, I found that two of the lines going to the WGDS were crossed by one of the previous owners. Funny thing, the first time I worked on it I found one of the clamps about 1" down the hose which I found odd - so definitely someone had messed with it and plugged the two larger connections in wrong. On my test drive with the WGDS hooked up correctly I noticed two things - first that boost around 3k rpm didnt come on smooth, you sort of felt it waiver a bit. Second, the boost guage showed a max of 6psi in 1st and second. I recalled from my first drive with the WGDS removed that it was alot smoother, and I got 6.5-7psi on my guage. But I had the pesky CEL when I did that. To bypass the valve I simply left the wiring harness for it connected and the valve in place. Then I simply capped the line coming from the intake plenum, and directly connected to the turbo outlet to the wastgate actuator. Now I get smooth boost, 6.5-7 psi in all gears, and no wavering. Plus no CEL. All in all another RX is back from the dead. Next up is getting the seats recovered and a few other odds and ends, but I'm totally pumped to have this thing running good.

So I figured this out finally. Turns out my waste gate duty solenoid (on the passenger strut tower) doesnt seem to be doing its job. I tested this by directly connecting the turbo pressure outlet straight to the wastegate actuator. When I did this I got peak boost of 6.5 psi reliably and no pinging. The car ran and drove beautifully. I am thinking the right move here is to remove the WGDS but keep the harness connected since it seems to throw a CEL when disconnected and just plug any open vacuum ports. I could even add a manual boost controller and up it to 8 or 9 psi, but frankly I'm not inclined to mess with this motor too much. Alternately, I am wondering if perhaps its just not connected properly and was wondering if someone could tell me which vacuum connections go where. I tried two different valves (happened to have a second one) and neither were controlling boost. I did test both by connecting them to 12v and listening for a click, which it did.

ok, update as of less than 15 minutes ago... topped up the radiator - was very slightly low, but not low enough it should have caused a no heat situation... overflow also got topped up just because I turned everything off when I started the car & let it come up to operating temp.. temp gauge rock solid dead in the middle of the sweep. heater temp was still set to 80 on Drivers side, 70 on pass... turned it on, and lo & behold, we have heat, and plenty of it... So.. thinking this is NOT heater core, t-stat or water pump related... electronics perhaps? I dunno, not familiar enough with the climate control system What say you guys?

uhh are you sure about that? heat doesn't just stop existing cause theres another form of heat nearby... like taking a blow torch to a frying pan while its on a stove top burner, saying only one of those is heating the pan

We were asking about the heater core hoses that go through the firewall to the heater core. One or both, cold, warm or hot after a few minutes of idling? With the temp gauge at normal, both of those hoses should be hot. When you said bottom hose, I think of radiator hoses.

As Numbchux said, if both heater hoses get hot then the problem lies with the door actuators in the heater box or the unit that controls them. Probably the Air Mix door actuator. I've replaced a few of them on different vehicles. Sometimes called blend door actuator. In sub-zero weather the lower radiator hose might get a little warm, but will not get hot unless you have cardboard in front of the radiator.

WAIT! - there MIGHT be a way to knock some more teeth off, then use it on a 90s car! LOL!

Pressure. The wastegate actuator works on pressure. About 7 psi. GD

Installed an Autometer mechanical boost guage today. I can see that it cuts fuel when the car hits about 15psi on the guage, so I am definetely overboosting. I have a cat here, going to install that into the exhaust this week.