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I agree with Carfreak85. I see this kind of wasted effort all the time on my DynoJet and it never does anything measurable. Under power the airflow through the manifold is so fast that it doesn't have time to pickup any significant amount of heat. It might allow slightly more ignition timing and a slightly leaner mixture at the start of a pull from a low airflow RPM - but as it climbs out the air would be moving so fast it wouldn't have time to pickup any heat. And in any case you would need a tuning solution that would allow adjustment of timing and fueling. Not likely to notice the 1 or 2 HP it would make through the midrange. It won't do anything at all at peak. GD

I lean on GD for block recommendations and experience. He does this stuff all the time and has described in detail in other posts about why. Look those comments up if you need more background and fact checking. It’s enlightening and data and experience driven. Im a member of a lot of Subaru forums since the 1990s, I know exactly what you mean! Blocks are tough and I don’t think advice given is purposely misguided. There’s just not much volume to go on. Few people are doing any volume of blocks over a long enough time to make more than anecdotal assumptions, there’s no good data. And almost no one has the volume or time to do it multiple ways and compare data. GD is about as close as you can get to that anywhere online when it comes to Subaru blocks.

5 Year update, lmao. Figured i'd add a couple notes for reference. Went with a Dorman Reman Driveshaft, great quality, no problems, balanced well and has grease fittings - sweet. Center Bearing is included IIRC because I can't recall anything about that part of the install. Note: I wouldn't recommend trying to rebuild the driveshaft / u joints yourself, as the u-joints are not designed to be serviced, and while they share similarities to the Nissan drivetrain and *can* be serviced (so they say) , I learned they are a royal b^tch to replace and do require a lot of specialized skill to replace. NEAPCO makes replacement bearings, and as much as I wanted to save a buck and do it on my own, tried and decided it was probably a waste of time. YMMV, there area a few YT videos and I believe @ the time, there was a very informative video of some dude that was repairing a HONDA driveshaft that helped show what needed to be done. Did not need to do anything extra to the transmission snout, ie: snout sleeve. My 98 was a Phase 1 engine - 4 bolts + 1 stud for starter. Donor trans was a Phase 2 w/ 8 bolts, (2 for starter). Trans bolted up no problem, however instead of drilling+tapping a hole to receive the (1) starter bolt needed, I left it be. Works fine, I added loctite to the single existing bolt just in case. Torsional loads are not a concern because the starter has a machined lip that will contact the bellhousing to support any torsional load if the starter were to dislocate / shift. Whole reason for 5MT swap was that my 4EAT was tired, and obviously had some strange shifting patterns and habits that could only indicate imminent failure (ha ha). I was in a rush, and with a stroke of luck, there was crashed Forester @ the local junkyard, so I jumped on it, since I needed to fix it quickly anyway. I could have sourced a more *desirable* transmission and gone about the whole process differently, sure. But, ahem my excuse = lazy+no time. Anyway, the 4eat differential ratio was a 4.11, so lucky me, the donor Forester 5MT apparently had a 4.11 final drive as well, which definitely worked out in my favor, too - I didn't have to muck with the rear end. Personally, I think it really worked out, in a weird way. I guess i'm happy with it, all things considered. The donor transmission in the Forester has a shorter 2nd, 3rd, @ 4th gear ratio compared to most Impreza gearsets / 3.9 Final Drives except the RA models, which is pretty neat. Coupled with a 4.11 Final drive, city drivability seems improved. I mean, with 137 horsepower on tap, gearing helps a ton. *wink wink* Only caveat is that the VSS gear on the front differential is geared for the Forester tires - (larger rolling diameter) and cannot be changed without some type of sophisticated electronic DIY VSS speedo calibrator converter custom deal or, replacement of the actual gear (ie: take it all apart ^_^) I'm lazy, so I chose to leave it and calculate the offset if I wanted to know the real story on things. Cheers.

Cooling system is hooked up just weeping from the waterpump. The steam was from the radiator heating up as it was wet. No this is a Turbo, just missing the intake ducting. Need to get hold of one.