Leaderboard

That’s amazing. Well done man!

I wish I could get my hands on it to sort it out. It looks like he used a red wire nut to connect all those wires together. Remove the tape and unscrew wire nut. Put it back on the Black (hot) wire OR pull the 30 amp fuse. To play it safe check for voltage on the removed wires. They should all be dead. Check for continuity from each of the wires (probably Red/Y) to pins 2 and 13. Mark the one for pins 2 and 13. Scroll up and look at the wiring diagram you posted. The wires from the fuse to the relay are Yellow. The wires out of the relay are Yellow/Red. If the continuity check says one of those wires goes to pins 2 and 13 it must be moved to the output of the relay, or add another relay to power it. With the fuse in I would check amperage draw on each of those wires one at a time from the black wire with an amp meter.

ok.... Check the CTS & wiring. I made a post on the forum a while back with various readings. IT can fail in ways that cause all kinds of problems, but no CEL. IAC valve & wiring is something to look at also.

that’s great! That’s crazy y’all figured out a custom wiring issue. Nuts. EJs loose oil past the oil control piston rings. There really isn’t any other way those consistently loose oil internally. You can check valve stem seals but that’s almost beyond unlikely for that engine.

victory!!! I did as you said and looked into the wire nut and as mentioned there were two additional yellow/red wire in there. i took them out and connected the rest, now everything checks out as supposed to, no 12V on 2 or 13 when ignition off and hot when ignition on, engine does not start without the ignition relay as supposed. The two y/r cable are cold when off and have 12 when engine is running, i found continuity to the red/yellow wires art the o2 sensor, so i am assuming that the lambda probe and probably a few other things did draw current when ignition was off. The parasitic current draw dropped now from 200mA to 7mA when ignition is off... I hope this should address the issue! Thanks for all the help especially to Rampage, now i have to figure our why the engine sucks 1qt of oil every 1000mls (100k mils ej22 92)...details.

" I rolled it over like Miles says in the video to 12:00 on the D/S for the CAM timing mark, and then I kept going to ZERO on the IGNITION mark (sprocket timing marks at 45 degrees outward), and I put the dizzy in."

Texan, Not likely to be going off road, we have some nice county roads and it may turn into a bit of a corner carver.

No fire from any orifices thankfully. Wires were correctly installed. Coil swap from a 2008 (my daughter's car) didn't change anything except some glaring looks from her teenage face haha. Car still searching for idle speed all over 600-800 rpm and rough. The MAF is different so couldn't swap that. So I pulled the MAP connector from the throttle body and started it and it flagged a CEL immediately, BUT, NO MORE WANDERING IDLE! Pulled the MAP sensor from the '08, swapped it, reset codes, and voila, its purring like a kitten. I live essentially in a flat plain without major altitude changes so I may be able to run like this until I can get a replacement. Maybe some vaporized crud in the intake found its way into the sensor. Sprayed some electrical contact cleaner into the MAP sensor cavity, but maybe best to replace with OEM?