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Thanks all for the responses! I had checked ebay, and a host of other sites. Called 4 Subaru dealers for parts diagrams, but none have any that go back to the 80s. It is item 10 in from Silverhelme's post. That diagram is from the Haynes manual. I ended up going with making a new one. Last night, I went to Home Depot, bought some clean Sheet metal stock, 22 or 24 gage thickness and traced over the with part #9 above to get the outline of the washer. I drilled out the center and filed out the Inner Diameter and was able to get the nib or tang in place with a small file and metal blade. I cut out the general circular shape and used that to get the job done. A little crude, but it worked! Using some pliers and other tools I scored the edge that fits against the D side of the thrust washer and was able to get a good bend to align with that flat side of washer. I scored two edges and got a bend going so once I put the nut on, I could finish tapping down the two edges against the hex side of the nut. Job done! The thickness of the metal I bought was about the thickness of a license plate and it was the same as the original washer. It was bendable enough to cover the nut. Again, thanks for the suggestions. If anyone finds them selves on this thread looking for a solution, I would recommend making your own. If the part number for this washer could be located, its possible it could be found somewhere, but without the number, its not locatable. Dorman's online catalog of 1000;s of parts has the nut, thrust washer and other part, but not this lock washer. Regards, Mal Updated with some pics of the hand made washer. Not perfect, but it fit well, has a full size nib to fit into the spindle slot as well as a good edge to align with the D side of the bearing thrust washer. These 2 points keep the washer from moving on the spindle. When the edge is then tapped down over the nut, neither one will rotate, thus preventing the nut from every backing off. Adapt, improvise and overcome to get the Old Subaru back on the road!

Subaru GL wagon. AMR500 supercharger. https://www.instagram.com/p/CA3_R7_nJik/

Y’all are lifesavers! Switched out the second filter and the bucking is gone — runs and sounds so good!

City stop and go is terrible for gas mileage. It’ll be low and possibly inconsistent. 20 is fairly average for these and FWD doesn’t get waaay more than AWD outside of very specific conditions. With long 100% highway trips they can get into the 26-28 mph range in perfect conditions. but conditions need to be ripe. That’s all highway and not doing 80. The 6 cylinder mileage drops quickly with any idling, city, mountains, etc a 6 will respond quicker and drop quicker than a 4 with city, mountain Winter, idling, etc if you want to pay attention to gas mileage it’s best to do it on a long consistent trip. If you have a somewhat regular vacation/hobby/family/work trip, with relatively consistent driving speeds and few stops, use that as your gas mileage base line. also what is “using the trip meter? Are you actually dividing total miles by gallons when you fill up ? If not, then there are probably estimating errors. its also winter - car idling while de-icing or brushing snow or ice or letting it warm up or defrost will kill gas mileage too. Gas engines are highly inefficient at idle.

Gotta keep going Bennie! Have always loved Ruby Scoo, same colour combo (blue with white wheels) as my wagon! I know your feels though, trying to fix a front end shimmy at the moment... hard keeping up with the maintenance at 453,000 kms!

But it looks different and impressive !!

Two fuel filters, one front, one near pump in most EA81 carby models. Fuel hoses have been found to break down internally. I also have, and many others, had to use compressed air to blow out the steel fuel lines, section by section. The final section into the tank was my culprit. Rusty crud like nothing else blew into the empty tank. Cleaned out from sender hole with rag on long piece of wire

I have a bunch of fuel injector rails - Red injecotors, late 90's. Today I pulled 8 for another USMB member. The rails and Injectors were removed from the intake. I removed the Injector cap screws. I tried to push them out. They were stuck. I took a soft wood board, put it on the Injector and clamp against the rail and pulled them together. The Injectors popped right out. The softwood protected the tip of the injector. Nice.

T in a fuel pressure gauge. See if it drops too low. Starving for fuel causes bucking. Possibly spark problem - if the fuel pressure gauge stays up under the conditions that cause the bucking.

Here is a page from my Haynes manual.

Ditch all the covers. Waste of plastic. 20 minutes to change the belts without them. Carry spares. IIRC (and it's been a while so maybe I don't), the oil pump sprocket has the lip that keeps the inside edge alignment on the DS belt. Should at least look to make sure that's intact and in the correct position. GD

Bravo! Someone that's not completely helpless. Tip of the hat to you sir! GD

if you seen my post in the members ride section you'd see im doing every bit of maintenance i can to this engine, and i have taken your advise in a few sections already... and im really not into ej swapping the car, ive got enough ej work to do on my twin turbo build thats haunting me with all its insane amount of vac lines and attention to detail im putting into it, im just doing this ea82t stuff as like a thought experiment... kinda like a "what ive learned my whole life dealing with ea's" kinda dealio, getting an external oil pump and cooler was part of the plan, and im planning on running high quality synthetic oils i do appreciate your efforts helping others, it just comes off as quite biased, and for good reason, if not a bit dismissive. some people like apples, some people like covering their faces with bees and running into an electric fence, lol

looked over the wire harness and cleaned up all the connectors with a couple welding tip cleaners adjusted the pins a little bit so they would have a little more clamping force and covered in dielectric greese, did this for every clip

so i was a little worried that the extra coolant hose length would not allow enough flow so i picked up an auxillery coolant pump from like an audi or vw, this should keep things flowing good. also picked up a second elextric fan

It was already modified when I bought it, but never properly tuned. Instead of having it tuned, I decided to drive it for a while, and overheated it, blew the headgaskets, and locked it up. As for "making it mine", I'm referring to visual mods. Its a beautiful car, but its just not exactly what I wanted. Steven

so heres the external cooler for after the turbo installed... fits super nice

Be sure to grab the rear diff to match the diff ratio to the box. Many, if not all, of the series 1 gearboxes are 3.9 ratio. The series 2 are all 3.7. Turbo dual range has 1.19:1 low range, non turbo got the best low range from Subaru at 1.59:1. The turbo coupes (RXII) got dual range AWD with a locking centre diff. Best of both worlds on road and off-road, except for the crappy low range (but that can be swapped out). Cheers Bennie

I am not expert on superchargers or even turbos, and Yes my EA-82 is low power at low RPM, however, my build i had Delta Cam do a Stage 1 cam grind for more low RPM power, and i also run a Weber 38/38 Synchro Carburetor-- you can get the kit from Red Line. (I was the 1st person they know of to actually use this carb to the EA-82) The result is lots more low end power. I can spin the front tires in 2wd. i have not put it on the Dyno yet, but in the future i will. my thought is the 14hp drag of our supercharger would not over come the added performance and the supercharger will not make as much boost as a turbo charger. The caution on parts and the head gasket issues of the EA 82 would make me shy away from this mod... (My 86 GL wagon has the automatic transmission hence is high geared compared to the 5speed manual trans, and for me it is an every day driver so the low end torque and power is needed for me for starting out and getting on the freeway when my RPMs will not be over 4000 that often FYI only)

whelp, i think im gonna just give up on this car... hard to stay motivated .... thanks guys, i guess there's no love for old subarus anymore, dm me, ill let this car go for a song