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Not really but I'm hopeful to move to the porch by spring. And now wife is touchy because the oven went lukewarm and pizza night was almost a bust. Teenage daughter moaned her sweet potato fries were too crunchy. Time for the oven catapult.

Running awesome now for the past week. Put a new NGK coil in and a cheap MAP sensor because three ben franklins is too big of a hit for an OEM MAP imho. OEM from a parts yard would do, subies are rare in my neck of the woods though. I'm the biggest skeptic but honestly it hasn't running this well in...ever. No more pre ignition or wandering idle. New wires and plug swap didn't help this problem. So bottom line is: 0. disassemble throttle body and clean throttle plate, so nasty 1. clean intake with seafoam spray 2. can of seafoam in gas 3. idle relearn procedure 3.5 new coil 4. new MAP Kudos to all who got me through this.

You need a hydraulic press and bearing splitters to disassemble the shaft for inspection. You can't determine anything with it together. GD

Nope. The sensor generates a voltage input to the computer via a single wire. You can read this voltage with any meter. But the data is useless as I explained above. GD

You can’t see the friction surfaces without disassembling the shafts and gearsets. Not an easy task I reckon (I’ve not done this). With synchros you’re looking for some roughage on the friction surfaces. They stop working when they’re smooth and don’t create friction to slow or speed up the gear that the driver is trying to select. That’s when the crunch happens same as when changing gear without the clutch and you don’t rev match properly. You could pull the synchros and have them lightly bead blasted - I’ve heard this is a good method to bring them back to life. But the effort (or f’-it) to get the synchros out usually isn’t worth it. Cheers Bennie

Yes that is a reverse lockout device so you can’t slip into reverse when shifting down from 5th. To properly look at synchros you need to pull them out as the real action happens on the friction cones. What you’re looking at is just the tabs that align for the gear selector ring to slip over and lock the gear in for use. Cheers Bennie

once it starts youll need to drive it.. THis year subaru needs to "learn" how to properly run the engine after the battery has been disconnected.. same thing happens after you clear the check engine lights. They will run like crap for a short while then usually run fine after.

For sure, especially now since her car won't start...probably bad crank sensor randomness- now that I'm in the doghouse I can try conversations about cats, usually a safe topic with her