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Factory Service Manual (FSM). GD

Hi all, New to this BB, Suby guy in Vancouver BC. My main ride 2010 Outback Limited, 200K KM's. Since retiring, been doing a lot of the work myself, easier on the pension. I also have a 2014 Impreza Sport, a Dodge 2000 Leisure Travel Van, and a lot of time on my hands. Hoping to gain some knowledge from a bunch of knowledgeable Subaru fans. Looking forward to contributing and a big hello to everyone on board.

1999 has two different, noninterchangeable EJ25's. Earlier you mentioned a 99 Forester Ej25, now you're stating 99 DOHC - which is outback/legacy. You need to pick one in regards to any questions about 1999. The answer is different for each of those 1999's. 1996-1998, and 1999 Legacy/Outback: All of these EJ25's are plug and play compatible with your EJ22. The EGR will need worked around if they differ and you'll need the EJ25 exhaust manifold. Easy. 1999 Forester and Impreza RS: the plugs are different, it is not plug and play, and the idle control mechanism is completely different and if you end up working through all the issues, getting it to run without a check engine light will be problematic if that's a local inspection/emissions issue. I would rering the Ej22 or use the EJ22 heads on the EJ25 block. It's highly unlikely the EJ22 heads are bad - statistically whatever EJ25 you buy probably has more chance of being problematic than your EJ22 heads. It's not like EJ25 blocks don't fail frequently enough - most of us that have been around awhile lost count of failed EJ25 blocks a LOOOOONG time ago and have never seen a failed EJ22 head. So if you're just going to guess and not leak down test or do a pressure test - you're best gamble is to go with the EJ22 heads over an EJ25 block. Although it is true that if you know the person selling the Ej25 block maybe there's some more complicated calculus to that equation....

The fuel pump runs every couple of hours to keep pressure in the system. That is what is killing your battery. Just disconnect the battery if you think you won't be driving it for a few weeks.

I thought the fuel pressure is supposed to be 36.3 psi. Am I wrong?

Here is some info that was provided to me by some nice people. Hope it helps you too.

I notice that when I am going uphill, that's when the struggling starts, I have to wait, keep the pedal on and wait until it "clears." Another thing is that this happens under load, when I have the car on idle, parked and I depressed the gas pedal, it runs fine, in other occasions it sputters a bit but generally runs smooth. However, when I actually drive it and I have to go uphill, bam! It won't go smoothly, stalls, boggs and only after a while it clears. Sounds silly but try BACKING up that hill and notice if anything changes.

hmmmm....seems like I have read of the starter's commutator needing cleaning? quick search found this;

my first guess is, they may be reversed. Diodes are polarized. and, not really sure they can be used in alt. field excite circuit???? (hope someone smarter will respond)

A newbie here, too. Welcome!

now propper rear spare tire carier foldable back, 2 positions full back and just enough back so trunk will open for smaller spaces hi lift jack winter edition upgrades and as winter is here and snow is here that means to have lots fun with car

Install a relay for the starter solenoid instead of running full solenoid current through the ignition switch and inhibitor/clutch relay, etc. GD