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I dont' think that makes a noticeable audible difference to the extent that you'd wonder "hmmm, is something wrong? The belt guide? It's not loose, bent, or rubbing is it? That guide, or lip, can get bent when people try to pull the sprocket off. If the noise is coming from the front and only the timing belt is causing it - then it sounds like the covers need to come off and hit every bolt of each pulley with a stethscope while it's running.

Could be normal with a loose belt or tensioner. Either way, if it's off by one tooth won't cause misfires you're seeing. Get a marker and count the teeth, if it all matches the belt is set correctly.

So hello, I’m new here. I impulsively traded in my 6 speed GTI for a 6 speed 2015 STI recently and thankfully I only had one “Oh Crap WHAT DID I DO?!” moment but anyway, here we are now. I figured it would benefit me to join a forum and learn more about my car from the people who know and love them. I’ve always coveted them for their beauty and excitement but obviously I didn’t prepare myself for actually owning one. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to as the opportunity to buy one presented itself and I jumped on it. I don’t know a lot whole lot about cars but I know more than the average female. I am confident I can be a good car owner. I’m here to learn from the best!

No that is no the cause of your problem. GD

You know.. I just had a moment of realization.. So the FSM indicates that ignition timing is 25 degrees BTDC for a Turbo MPFI AT. But now, my car is NO LONGER turbo. I removed the Turbo, I overhauled the engine with the right pistons to make it a non Turbo Car... An EA82 MPFI Naturally Aspirated. So I'm thinking... Should I then set the timing all the way back to 6 degrees BTDC in this case!!??

Had similar with my '83, was loose distributor shaft.

Unbolt and remove the FPR and try the air on the fuel rail. It should flow through easy. The system runs at 36 PSI using the vacuum. Without the vacuum the pressure is more like 40 something, I think. The fuel pump is capable of close to 80 to 100 psi, so it has a lot of push and a high flow rate. If the car is AWD, it has a saddle gas tank. The return hose goes into the tank and the fuel flows through a jet pump to siphon gas from the other side of the tank and bring it over to the side with the pump. In order to do that, it has to have a good flow out of the FPR.

When I took mine off I couldn't tell any difference. The engine noise was the same to me. I don't think the covers affect noise of the engine.

If the tensioners and idler bearings are good, they will be quiet. Good idea, removeing all of the v belts for a quick check. Usually, the dead bearings I've had feel dry like no grease, or crunchy if really bad. They should feel a little dragging from the normal grease. Try using a pice of 1/2" to 1" ID flexible hose as a stethoscope. Be wary of getting the probe end near anything windy. That should help narrow down the noise source.

GD says the port matching doesn’t matter. You could probably search for his comments on why. He’s given detailed explanations why. I figure you probably did this already, but if it is listed online that far out, maybe try to call?

If it happens while driving, it could be the wheel bearings. I used to get a "rubbing" sound from front end of my car and it was the wheel bearings. Were the bearings redone recently ? If not maybe they're due. If they were, sometimes they need to be re-torqued after driving for a while. If it happens at idle, then it might be the idler bearings for the timing belts.