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So the tank its on its way to be welded and sealed after the most laborious wash and cleaning I've done to a tank. 5 washes actually. I cleaned and reconditioned the inner filter of the suction structure, leaving not even a speck of dirt. The first picture speaks by itself. It was rusty mud in there. The inner filter's metal screen was clogged with super small particles. I have a busy week coming along!

Hi all, putting a weber in my winter project Brat. It’s an 82. Will the aluminum from an old license plate be stout enough to fabricate an EGR delete cover plate? It’s all I have around the garage. Hoping not to have to go out just for a small chunk of aluminum or steel. Thanks in advance.

So I was able to back probe the connector during the diagnostic cycle. When the pump fails to start on the regular cycle the voltage is low - like less than 1v so looks like relay after all.

Why don't you just leave the EGR? It helps with emissions and fuel economy and really only requires a single vacuum line - can route it through a thermo-vacuum valve (which you likely already have) if you want to be one of the cool kids. It doesn't have any effect at all on WOT performance. It has only benefits and no drawbacks. Deleting it is silly. Also there's no need to block the port off. If you don't want to use it just don't give it vacuum and it becomes it's own delete. GD

Clooged beyond recognition

Don’t forget to review the fuel pump sock, fuel filter, as well as fuel pressure regulator and injectors (if they can clog) to ensure all lines from tank to engine are clean.

Great. Look forward to that first test drive report. Well done tracking this down. Very interesting how intermittent the gas tank debris was. I have a feeling sheared and stripped bolts would greet us folks in rust prone areas if we messed with gas tanks. And we wouldn’t want to be torching tight spots next to a gas tank!

Oh dear this IS some investigative work! I confess I love forensic files. There is always some clue somewhere, and many times the most likely suspect is the actual killer So, I think the issue with the tank comes from the malfunctioning TURBO, it was toasted (back in 2015 or 2014 when I got the car) because of that and the UBER complicated amount of systems of this type of car, any Car technician working on it would never figure out.. anything in fact. All peripheral sensors were broken (coolant thermosensor, knock sensor, thermo switch, O2) As per the ECU being burnt, my thoughts are with a short circuit, and most probably the harnesses of the injectors. One of them smoked badly at one point and in the end I remade all 4 injector harnesses (and a second burnt computer) That wire of the pump (the shielded wire) was tampered with, here my dad gave me his 2 cents on that, because he knew about PWM, signals, noise suppression and more from his telecom times. The person who tampered there did not know about this and thought a ground point was needed for the fuel pump. But instead, it was a clean, unclogged fuel line what was needed. However, in splicing the negative wire and attaching a lead to the chassis, this would "send loose" the signal to chassis rather than the pulse control as ground coming from the ECU. (A potential additional problem to the ECU) The body work, yes, this car was in a colilsion, front end and sides, mainly the LHS rear panel. .. What a true investigative work. And Im not done. Below is a crude representation of what is inside the fuel tank. That blue pipe ends in what I call the suction structure, right at the back of the tank, where all the debris collects especially if the car is in a nose-up attitude. This will be examined thoroughly tomorrow after washing well the tank and cutting an opening safely.

Ha haha, I really dont want to do any more heavy work on this car, I just want to go do the darn groceries with it, or the odd ride anywhere

3 years on a Carter pump is pretty good. With our 95 Legacy the Carter 2in. and 1.5in. diameter pump would quit in 11 months, just short of the 1 year warranty. I replaced it several times under warranty, then a Denso pump showed up in the Carter box. That one lasted a long time. If I remember right, the OE was a Denso. The next time you hook up the green test connectors and the pump does not want to start, check the voltage on the positive wire to the pump with the connector still plugged in. If the voltage is low, the relay is the problem. If the voltage is almost 12v, tap the oval mounting plate with a small hammer. If the pump starts running the pump is bad. Some times they will not start when the pressure is still high. I think it has to do with the contact of the brushes with the commutator on the armature.

Nice - and good on you for teaching your kid how to fix stuff!

New washer arrived this week. I bought 4 of them, at $1.38 or something like that it'll be good to have some extras. In my humble opinion, I think the one I fabricated looks pretty good! I plan to put the new ones on in the coming weeks when the weather gets a bit better, also will be an opportunity to have my daughter do the replacement. She is currently driving the car and enjoys helping and learning about car repairs. I thought I'd add a photo of the Subaru.