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maybe use a white grease pencil or some liquid paper and make a mark across the crank pulley. maybe it is delaminating?

Stereo is possible culprit for dash - who knows what funky wiring is going on. Power the window and see if it moves. Need to find out if it’s the switch or motor. You can access the window motor wiring at the plug between the door and body frame, pull the rubber bolt and plug out there and give it power. Need the wiring diagram. For that matter just follow the FSM trouble shooting for a nonworking window. FSMs are widely available free online. It would also have the replacement instructions if needed I hate replacing Subaru window motors, used doors are so cheap ive found a color matched door and swapped it instead multiple times. Lol.

Those seats look like GL-10 $4k opening bid , or maybe low opening but $4k reserve.Just my opinion BAT seems to draw the more serious buyer. You’ll do well. Enjoy !

You’re on it. Install all new Subaru pulleys, tensioner and belt. New Subaru water pump and thermostat isn’t a terrible idea but those modern EJs aren’t prone to leaking even at high miles so they can be skipped. But at 10 years old and next change being 250,000...the original isn’t young. FSMs online as she stated in last post.

I bet mate. That’s an epic amount of work! Cheers Bennie

you can get a copy of the FSM here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ if you can do the timing on an EJ22, you can do it on an EJ25 - not really any significant differences. I went from a 95 Legacy with a non-interference EJ22 to a 2002 Forester with the EJ251 - pretty much the same as far as that job goes. Same "rules" apply - change all the pulleys, etc, all in one go and be done till the next time. I would do radiator hoses as well, and possibly vacuum lines - depending on condition.

have you checked the headlight bulb connectors? have come across a couple "melted" ones over the years.

Would you be able to tell me about this shop? Like could I mail them a rack to rebuild for an XT6? Yes, I've been daily driving XT's since 1992....(good grief that sounds terrible). My current one I lifted in the late fall and it needs some tweaks, but I'm not too worried about driving it with the amount of salt they've got all over the roads right now.

No - that's a terrible way to look at it if you're just asking which engine swap to do - EJ25D or EJ251. For an EJ25D you simply install the EJ25D and EJ25 ECU - they're plug and play compatible (caveats in last reply because you haven't given us enough info) For an EJ251 you'd need hours of wiring work and splicing. So the EJ25D "wiring" and "ECU" work would take 15 minutes....the EJ251 would take 15 hours. Completely different orders of magnitude.

No - you're conflating a lot of different variables and ideas that don't mix. No one knows what you're trying to do and you're mixing up frankenmotor verses engine swap verses piston swap information. Let us ASSUME you have the US 95-98 style EJ22: Remove it and install the EJ25D. Done - it'll run perfectly fine. People do it all the time. You may or may not need a different manifold and minor EGR tweak but we can't answer that until we know what motor you have..."EJ22E" isn't enough. Which one? If you wanted the EJ25D ECU - remove the EJ22 ECU and plug in an EJ25D ECU. The wiring is the same and they're plug and play compatible. No big deal. But I've done it and noticed zero difference in 160,000+ kilometers of using various ones. It's a complete waste of time for me. If you're doing a frakenmotor then maybe the compression changes things (depending what you do), but people install frankenmotors all the time without issues and without messing with engine management or wiring - it's commonplace. And they run fine and they aren't installing standalones. GD is also installing stand alone power management and doing huge engine builds. So sure, compared to NASA the stock ECU is lower grade. For your purposes - it's probably worth looking into what other DIY folks are doing verses 5 digit budgets.

Put it on BAT (Bring A Trailer). They have sold a lot of interesting old cars.

probably the lowest mileage 1984 Subaru out there in the wild in that kind of shape combination, ofcourse, Subaru has their own collection but those aren't for sale nor are they out in the wild. if i was you, i would be asking 3,800 and come down as low as 3,500. my brat has 68,000 original miles currently but it isn't in that great of shape since it was a farm vehicle and abandoned from 1994-2016, the interior needs help and so does the body but what the heck, oh well. so ask for the higher price of 2,500-4,000 range, it really is worth it, even if it's just a 2WD. forgot to mention, don't get desperate, the longer you have it posted for sale, the more forums your car will appear on, trust me, word always spreads will classic Subaru's, especially in that kind of shape.

That's a nice car. The latest "Old Cars Report Price Guide" gives an estimate of about $2500 to $4000 for an '84 Subaru sedan in that condition. It's somewhere between a 2 and a 3($2500 on their scale), much closer to 2 ($4000). It's worth what someone is willing to pay, but I'd want more than $2500 for it. The miles are too low and it's in too nice of shape, plus you can prove the mileage. If you give it away, it'll be one of those cars where the guy that buys it will be at the local cars and coffee bragging to everybody how little he paid for it with 25K miles on it in this shape. In other words, you sold it too cheap. Sell it right, and you'll be fine with what you get. Heck, even if you keep it and wait for a better market in your area, and in the meantime put 5K miles on it, it's still under 30K miles. That's assuming you keep it in the same shape, of course.

Be sure to grab the rear diff to match the diff ratio to the box. Many, if not all, of the series 1 gearboxes are 3.9 ratio. The series 2 are all 3.7. Turbo dual range has 1.19:1 low range, non turbo got the best low range from Subaru at 1.59:1. The turbo coupes (RXII) got dual range AWD with a locking centre diff. Best of both worlds on road and off-road, except for the crappy low range (but that can be swapped out). Cheers Bennie