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You should list your car when you have specific questions. I think you’ve got a newer Subaru if I recall correctly from your other threads. For daily driver uses that car is set up to perform very well right from the factory. Drive and enjoy. If you have some specific goals - what are they? You haven’t stated any so I’d just ignore people...including me...and enjoy it. Id pretty much enjoy the car for what you want out of it not what other people think. I’d basically ignore anyone’s opinion. Anyone seeing a new car and commenting on mods....I’d just internally shake my head and want to be around different people who don’t think that way. But alas that’s me sorry. On to the merits of “to mod or not”. I work on a lot of Subaru’s and maybe 1% of commentary I hear is practically or factually accurate. Most people are regurgitating, striking up conversation, giving low grade anecdotal feedback, glad someone is listening to their jabbering (I mean we all like it when people listen to us!), or vicariously living through you. You are not likely to run into a well versed subaru informant. All of what I just said is 5 times truer if you have a turbo vehicle...and maybe 10 times truer if you’re a female who owns a turbo. Sounds asinine but it’s probably accurate. Nod politely and move on. I hate trying to help someone with a car when a “friend” is there commenting - it’s usually total garbage, made up to sound cool guesswork - and I’m going to do the real work and get things done while they do nothing. There’s a reason they’re only doing the talking and I’m the one making things happen. Wash rinse repeat - seen it countless times If it’s a turbo don’t use anything but synthetic and change the automatic (if it’s an auto) trans fluid at 50k even if the manual says otherwise. Older turbos it was a good idea to remove the banjo bolt screens. but here’s where you should ignore me - I generally avoid turbos so that’s probably archaic info. Someone else will know if there’s any “really should consider doing this” mods and if those banjo screens are a thing on newer turbos Otherwise don’t do anything except what you want.

Ask the seller for one. They might have more incentive than you to have it on hand. This won't work for most buyers - but I could pull this off most of the time. If I was "probably picking up Tuesday" i'd be nearly 100% sure I'm getting it - as long as it hasn't been wrecked or have more rust than I anticipate from pictures/discussion. I'd say something like....I'll buy it if it has no more rust than I expect and hasn't been in an accident - could you get a carfax report and I'll reimburse you for it if it hasn't been wrecked or lived in a rust state?" Tell them exactly why you want it. I've bought like 50 subarus and helped people buy like a couple dozen others, so i've got a lot of experience. I also buy almost ever car I go look at - I don't have time to window shop and screw around, so I'm pretty serious and people get that when I talk to them. I'm up front, not going to lowball (I usually am already looking for lower priced vehicles and I'm willing to throw cash and even add more $$$ to their asking price sometimes if I want), and that makes a difference in how I communicate. Anyway - I'm just saying don't expect them to bite but I'd be able to get them to agree most of the time just based on my confidence and doing this many times. I know what people do and don't want to hear. Also google the VIN number and see if it's registers under anywhere strange - auctions, etc. I also concur with GD's response - if you don't find a way to get a carfax quick, just pay for it. You're time can't be that invaluable if you're buying a 5 digit car. If you're unsure about buying the car then buy one of those "packages" that allows you to VIN search a few vehicles. If you're fairly certain you're going to buy the car - then pay for the carfax. I've used carfax lots of times. Some times I do, sometimes I don't it just depends what i'm buying, from who, where, price point, etc. For most people though - just buy it. Looking at a 5 digit car and commensurate maintenance over it's lifetime and trying to save pocket change isn't really worth the time.

I mean, I hate the EA82. But I'm not sure I could talk myself into pulling a running one for an EA81t... I ASSume those have the same turbo placement and up-pipe routing as basically all other Subaru H4 turbos. Which would mean you'd need a EA82t crossmember, or modify yours, or redo the exhaust.

Not very high in standard form (EA81) Other reasons - 2 valves / cylinder single port intake and exhaust port heads / small shared manifolds (limitations to air flow increases for limited performance gains) - similar for EA82s - OHV limits high RPMs also - Agree, 3 main bearing crank - bottom end not as strong for high rpms (EA82 similar) IF serious about performance gains , EJ engines with 4 valves / per cylinder bigger manifolds, better for air flow increases / performance gains - especially ones with 4 port heads DOHCs, with freer revving OHCs, better for higher rpms. Also 5 main bearings on crankshaft - bottom end stronger for higher rpms. Wouldn't and didn't bother to try and modify my EA81 / 82s for those reasons. The only one I would consider modifying is , if had an RX2 AWD 5MT D/R with EA82T would replace heads with 4 port heads / manifolds etc upgraded internals etc ,do it properly. Power gains from 115hp (stock) up to 200hp Also EA82 OHCs are more free revving so a better platform to start off with than clatterly old school OHV EA81s best left stock. PS EA81s are mid rangers ie work best keeping motor spinning between 2500rpm and 3500rpm (ie max torque at 2400rpm max hp at 4800rpm Nothing to be gained in exceeding 5000rpm just to prove a point apart from trying to destroy an engine .that isn't designed for high rpms. Ea81s are bomb proof simplicity (gear driven cam) but over revving them is a sure way to try and kill them.