Leaderboard

Get under there and grab it and thrust it towards the diff and the hub - is there any play? If it's just a ring of slight corrossion then it might work, but if it's got consistent corrossion that's going to pull across the entire splined area even a little movement isn't going to free the entire thing. So you try a little and see what happens. Here's the issue: If it's rusty - like if the car is from the north - sometimes they won't budge with smashing with a hammer and you'll compress the threads so much that the axle nut won't thread back on and the end will be mushroomed out enough that it won't pull through the hub. So yeah you can try bashing it - but don't do it so hard that the end threads start to comrpess and mushroom out. You're in florida - rust that bad isn't going to be as common as it is up here, but there are plenty of northern transplants down there as well. In these cases a torch is your friend unless you love pounding and getting creative - those are beastly time sucking jobs.

This is an epic build! Good work on keeping going

When you get a bunch of wheel slip the computers will often set wheel speed sensor codes. Happens literally every time we run cars up in the air on a lift. They will clear on their own when it doesn't see the fault for X number of drive cycles. GD

It's unlikely the master cylinder was affected by the repair work. Getting air out of the system can be a bi*ch. Don't ask me how I know. Bleeding system is best done with two people.