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Well, I have just test driven, and agreed to purchase, this fine example of an early 1984 build 3ed gen JDM Leone sedan. It is the top spec trim, and has digital dash, trip meter, cruise control, air con, and was fitted with the height adjustable suspension (now removed). Trans is 3at auto with part time 4wd. It also has a sweet water to air intercooler setup fitted by the current owner. Drives very well. Pulls harder than my old turbo wagon, with the intercooler. All the electrics work. Best bit? Only 129,000 kms since new. Only issue is leaky sump gasket. Hopefully will collect next week once WOF and rego done. Here's a teaser pic... And yes, I will be keeping Gertie... Keep your eyes peeled for the next stage of her build (she's going up in the world!)

Oh that's too bad, that sounds like the time sucking horror job variety. I've broken 3 jaw pullers and brake rotors trying to push stubs through. 3 jaw puller on the brake rotor and POW - the rotor shatters. hopefully you get lucky but torch/press/cutting might be needed.

2 2x4's across two rafters will work, or even a 4x4 as close to where there is a truss as possible. They don't have to be much longer than the span they have to cross. If you can, secure the ends to the joists. The weight will be where the pulley is, so the length won't matter. Don't even remember the quantity of engines I lifted with just a chain through my house garage ceiling and a come a long. Just don't try to do an engine and tranny in one piece!!!!

Subaru gasket. Those others and variable thickness are unnecessary. Clean the head bolts, holes, and resurface the heads. You don't need an engine stand. An old tire works well for holding the engine if your capable of moving it around some. Prop the tire up on wood or pavers or stone or whatever and you're golden. "Rafters" - just don't do a point load of one or a couple points - spread the load out over as many "rafters" as possible. Lay some 2x lumber edgewise across as many rafters as you can - preferrably spreading it out over a few rafters/trusses rather than just one or two rafters and one or two points. Lay a couple 12' 2x's across 3 or 6 or whatever you can get rafters and then use that, rather than the rafters, to hoist from. Garage "rafters" are too variable in spacing, design, loading, rafters/trusses/bottom chords, hurricane straps, tornado, local code, outside of code..and are they already loaded with storage or compromised due to age in some way... etc to comment. Ideally you have 2' spacing trusses, some "pole barn" type garages like metal siding/roofing company installed versions are 4+ spacing. Most aren't designed for any significant live or point loads like you're intending but you can get away with it just fine if you spread the load out like I said. Don't be dumb or just hook it up and go - think about it for a couple minutes, slide some boards up there and you'll be fine....I mean as fine as you can be without sending me pictures of the rafters...legal disclaimer...you might die...etc. I designed roofing systems for my first engineering job, we specialized in complex structures.....not your typical home builders/congtractor or lowes type stuff, though i did plenty of that easy stuff as well.

I'd try to move along from that car as quickly as possible and not put much effort into it. Or carefully inspect it - post pictures underneath for us to guage how bad it is. I buy my cars from out west and south just to save asinine hours of dealing with sheared bolts, rusty parts, and more work. In the past few years my daily drivers have come from Florida, Georgia, California, Texas, and Florida again. I rarely have to use my torch any more and I haven't drilled out a bolt in years - it's glorious! The oil leaking headgaskets can drive a long time and slowly get worse. When the factory original gasket leaks oil they almost never overheat - they're just going to keep leaking more and more oil over time. Since yours has been replaced, that increases the odds of an overheating event, but usually it's just oil and maybe there's a chance it was never replaced to begin with. It's not hard for "valve cover" to upgrade to "headgasket" through 3rd party, circumstantial, buyer/seller conversations by the time a car is sold.

Typical. You have to resurface the heads, clean the block surfaces really well, and use the 770 or 642 gaskets or the HG's will leak about 25k miles after replacement. It's not a matter of if they will leak, but when and how many times they need to be redone till someone does it the right way with 770's. GD

The window is the motor. They all do that. It will be rusted solid inside. If you have the right tools you can do it in about 20 minutes. But book time is like 2.8 hours or something silly. Can be done by brail with a LONG 90 degree #3 Philips bit driver. But per Subaru you have to pull the regulator. Don't bother with used or aftermarket - they ALL fail like that. I have done dozens and dozens of Forester window motors. They are $225 from Subaru. Cluster illumination - you turned up the dimmer right? GD