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While I have used RR and ECU Flash with a Tactrix cable and laptop, it was not 'easy'. Not hard, just kinda anxious. As for the range of models my cable works with, after you get it, you could email Tactrix or maybe the RR group to figure out what it will/won't work with. After downloading the software, you have to do an update for the 'definitions' for each car model/year. I used it to kill 14 codes on my WRX. DO NOT try to use ECU Flash from any laptop that is not fully charged! Also, I recommend getting a cheap flash drive for any car you mod, throw the original rom data and the new data in files on it to pass along to the owner. You might consider putting those files on a cloud server somewhere too, associate it to the VIN? - just in case you need to revert to original. I see no reason I couldn't mail the cable to you to play around with. JUst keep it on 'permanent loan'. It's unlikely , but, you could just mail it back if I ever needed it. PM me a mailing addy and I will work on getting it to you - could be a week or 2 as we are very busy catching-up on things since my MIL moved out. as you know, over at subaruoutback.org, PlainOM and others have a thread. You could PM those guys for info too.

SOLVED! Thanks to everyone who helped me through this issue. I ended up splicing a wire into pin 10 on the vehicle side of the wiring harness and grounding it to a bolt on the engine. I checked continuity between this bolt and the negative terminal of the battery beforehand to ensure it was a good ground. I decided to splice into the vehicle side of the harness as opposed to putting a new pin on the engine side of the harness because I couldn't find a terminal/pin anywhere on the internet. The code was gone when I fired it up and its been running fine ever since. Cheers!

You may decide to keep this wagon and sell whatever other ride you have. Financial these cars are fuel and money savers once they are running well. There's a reason your neighbors and people on this board are interested in your wagon... Telling this board you will sell it, almost is like the sound of a dying animal to a pack of wolves... you got all the wolves attention... Enjoy the wagon, it will grow on you more and more. And if you do ever want to sell, this Wolf in Seattle is interested in buying.

Head gaskets in 2002 replaced and seem to work but we won't really know until this summer. Thanks for the tip on the rack and pinion. 99 has been starting consistently with push button. We got all the new long travel parts tack welded. Dropped it all off to get TIG welded a couple weeks ago, they're almost done now. Have to figure out galvanize/plating/painting. Finally heard back from Fox, most of the parts I ordered a few months ago should be here any day. Still have a few parts to finish machining and a few other parts to order. Test assembled the low range for the 6MT and it seems to work on the bench. Might have the parts heat treated and finish ground for assembly this weekend, maybe even get it in the car? Excited about getting that working. Z is almost done printing a rear knuckle for us to test fit. Might really need the front axles in the rear once the low range is working.

Inferno Fabrications in St. Helens has done EA82T stuff for us in the past - needed an up-pipe for a customer several years ago and he made one up. GD

As carfreak explained - it's just not going to magically stop the heat from getting into the heads. Especially under sustained boost. It *might* show a gain in the delta time before saturation, but it's not going to affect the ultimate temperature. That's going to be down to combustion temps. If you want it to last, run it on E85. With the LINK you now have the ability to do that safely. You simply need the Ethanol content sensor and you can do a full flex fuel tune. E85 runs cooler, and is essentially impossible to cause damaging detonation. And if you REALLY want to ensure it never gets hot - run Meth injection or just tune it on straight Methanol. I've seen 1000 HP Methanol cars that you could touch the cylinder head after a full power dyno pull. GD