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Here's the next set of photos I promised: Enjoy!

I help a friend get a 99 Legacy a couple of years ago. Lately it started to die at random times. It starts back up after a bit. No Codes set? Ideas? I hate just to change parts, but I do have spare sensors. I'm thinking start with Cam and Crank Sensor. I would think if the sensor was out it would have a code set. Or change out the MAF? Thanks, Larry

What nut? The crank pulley is held in place by a bolt that is still the same size posted earlier in this thread: A 3/8" socket wrench is waaaaay too small - put a 2-3 foot pipe over the handle. It's a huge steel bolt, the crank isn't aluminum, it's never corroded - you can't strip it unless you tried. It's the only subaru bolt i've never seen stripped. So give it a lot of torque. Another tricky part is *locking the engine in place* - if the tool you're using to hold the engine in place is bending or moving then some of your load is being wasted there rather than transfered to the bolt. Use a stout screw driver in the flex plate and make sure it locks in tight. I usually watch it rest against the bellhousing to make sure it's all seated how I want it before giving it the full torque. Remember it's 150 ft-pounds. That's 150 pounds of force at a 1 foot distance from the center. If you have a pipe/wrench/handle that's 2 feet away from the crank bolt, including losses you're going to need to pull on it 80-100 pounds to reach 150 ft/lbs torque. If you use an 3/8" socket wrench with an 8" handle you need to pull 300 pounds (with losses)

I just realised this is a series 1... Cheers Bennie

Every six months!! Geez, that’s crazy. Each state is different in Oz. So here in Vic, you do a check over for a Roadworthy Certificate, often known as a RWC, then you go in for rego. Pay your rego each year and you’re all good. Your beast looks so good. And that factory cruise on the steering wheel, plus the digi dash! Good score there sir! Look after her Cheers Bennie

Redback Brumby went on a little road trip from Bendigo to Wandiligong Pub via Tooborac, Seymour, Yea, Mansfield, Whitfield, Myrtleford, Porpunkah, and Bright. Wandi Pub - the sticker that came with my bullbar I got for it a number of years ago was the reason for the trip! The return trip was more of a bee-line home to save on time. It was a boring run but still a good end to the day. These are one of a series of “silo art” that are part of a circuit you can do to see them all. This one is at Colbinabbin: Good day had. In the 682ish km we covered we only came across one real dickhead on the road. One too many but good compared to what we could’ve come across considering it’s a long weekend. The brumby did 7.8L/100km for one section - this included a flogging through the hills with a load of twisties involved. I’m yet to work out overall fuel economy. She’s no sports car, but she does alright Cheers Bennie

You get what you pay for to some extent. There’s really no short answer to this rabbit hole topic. short answer - read inordinate amount of reviews, or buy michellin or buy a cheaper tire and plan to replace it every 2-3 years for better rain/snow traction (explanation below) long...... tire feedback and understanding in general is at about a 7 year old level. I’ve never heard one good tire discussion in person or even on a car forum that’s backed by even a tiny bit of data and makes sense. Anecdotes and opinions everywhere that have no technical design basis and usually don’t line up with reality. I’m fine with some of that, but this topic is nearly devoid of it entirely. I had to dig into research to learn something helpful and practical. If you want a great tire the rest of your life and to never think about it again buy Michelin. They are great tires all around, nearly everything they make is good. They’re well respected and ranked as a company, and generally hire experienced decorated engineers/leaders without bragging about it, so it’s not a surprise they’re products are good either. It’s all about materials engineering and what they’re putting into the tires to protect them from UV and oxygen degradation. That’s problematic for a variety of reasons - mostly no one is talking about it and it’s unknown. Think about toys, tools, anything left outside that’s plastic or rubber. It degrades. I could make a huge list. Those materials, particularly cheap or not intended for outdoor use, degrade fast in sunlight and exposure. Who hasn’t experience cracked and broken dried out brittle plastic/rubber handles, Tools, Toys, pools, sleds, planters, etc left outside in the summer sun? we left high quality made in the USA plastic snow sleds from the 1970s out last summer and they fell to pieces. They were flawless without a crack for 40 years and one summer of exposure killed them. tires do the same thing. Go to Florida and find craigslist tires that have sat outside - HOLy smokes they can look like the Grand Canyon even with 90% tread and two years old. And they will SUCK in the rain and snow up here. I’ve seen it multiple times. Even on gravel they’ll slide around with full tread because they’re so dried out and hard. It’s like having Big Wheels (remember those?!) tires on your car, the ABS won’t even work normal in the rain. It’s even unhelpful to leave tires in the same Position for extended periods of time for a few echnical materials and exposure reasons. That’s why there is significant documentation on tire life at the NHTSA and in Canada. and why RV crowd and others cover their tires. That’s what happens to tires as they age. Manufacturers treat the compounds to prevent this degradation process. My guess - is that cheaper tires use less of these preventative chemicals, compounds, and manufacturing processes. My guess may be wrong regarding the causative reasoning but I’ve seen the outcome numerous times no matter what is causing it. And it’s always cheaper tires. A cheap tire can perform just as good as an expensive tire in year one or two. After that the difference can escalate fast. I’ve seen numerous examples of cheap tires (was mart cheapies are particularly bad) showing cracking in less than two years and sliding all over the snow. geneal Altimaxs tires are a great example as they’re loved by Subaru crowd and forums. they’re decent tires and cheap - but have weak sidewalls and degrade by year two. I’ve seen 4-8 of them with bulging sides but live in an area with bad potholes. I’d recommend them in areas with better roads. They perform okay later in life in snow, they’re better than most cheap tires or no names for sure and they’re not cracking early. But snow traction suffer by year two. and I’ve had to convince people I’m trying to help - who don’t believe me - “look at all that tread, they passed inspection, you got to be kidding me, they’re not old”...that I’m right and no one else they’re talking to knows what they’re talking about. Good grief that’s not easy beduse literally noon is aware of tire life span and the driving factors behind it additionally people have various levels of snow experience and tolerance. Someone living in flat rural Ohio with no traffic who gets to work from home when it snows easily raves about the same tire that would kill someone who needs safer tires in a fast urban or mountainous area that never gets plowed and they have to go to work. again skewing reviews and opions all over the place. the Altimax tires are decent but not for more than 2 years for me on a car I need to rely on in the snow. I drive nasty unmaintained mountain roads with horrid grades. They’re good but degradation doesn’t go unnoticed here like it did before I moved to a rural mountain property. *** The huge issue here, is that most online reviews happen in that first year window before any degradation happens. Whatever they do in manufacturing isn’t as likely to impact reviews. So those low possibility of seeing the technical aspects of tire quality bare themselves out in tire reviews. But I’ll look for hints of it when reading them. so we have no good data to go on. Tire materials and ingredients are unknown. Reviews are made by people who don’t know 1% of what I just said and they make the reviews before experiencing issues....and they usually then blame the car “too little weight in the rear”, “4WD is getting old”, “this brand sucks in the snow”...or some other invalid assumption. All of which I’ve heard numerous times form people POed at their poor performing car (which is really tire issues) sorry for the diatribe. The only brand tire I’ve seen that consistently shows great performance across all seasons for 4+ years is Michellin. I haven’t gotten into perellis - I don’t buy them and no ones car I’ve ever worked on has them. Other tire companies make great tires too but it’s hard to pick them out because some are less stellar. So read lots of reviews if snow traction is bad. I buy high end snow tires (XIce or Nokian, based on Canadian research, the low end ones degrade faster as well) and inexpensive all seasons. If I had to buy one all season and drive it in the winter I’d lean towards michellin all seasons, unless some raging number of reviews and price lured me to try something else.

You're Welcome! in my own humble opinion, having two different fans switching on and off at different temperatures, will only get one fan working almost all the time, the one with lower temperature will take the job first, avoiding the second one from working. Also, with A/C on, mainly the other fan will take the Job. Plus such setup complicates wiring unnecessarily... adding more parts and costs, thus means more points where the system might fail. So, I kindly suggest you to wire both fans as I did, to simplify things and keep the setup closer to factory specs. Kind Regards.

Awesome! I always liked the rare rear Wiper on JDM Sedans. I notice the lack of vacuum accumulator bottle, on the engine's bay.

This is How the Honda Calipers Looked Like onto my BumbleBeast's Rear Disc Brakes: On the Right Rear Side: On the Left Rear Side: Perfect! Even the Flexible Lines that came with the Honda Calipers, fitted Perfectly my Subie's Lines. So I Started to Deeply Clean those Calipers before Definitively Mounting them.

Thank you! Yes, 6 months is a bit excessive given she's only going to do a couple of thousand kms a year, if that.