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There is no additional performance to be had. They are already as volumetrically efficient as they are going to get. GD

I don’t know which are worse than others but non OEM, Fel Pro or Cometic gaskets are the ones seen failing regularly within a year. I wouldn’t use anything but OEM headgaskets. Top off the fluids and the thing will keep driving until you can get Subaru. Someone might get me to bend on timing components, I would basically refuse to install any gasket I didn’t just mentioned.

Excellent info above. A Gates timing belt broke in 2 months. A reman water pump leaked out the weep hole 2 days after I installed it. I put the old one back in. I have seen the ball bearings fall out of the cheaper idler pulleys.

Howdy, I work in Morgantown, but there are quiet a few of those...lol Just to make sure - you realize that if the belt breaks those engines usually bend lots of valves and you're into major engine work? That's one reason this is important. I've bought Subarus (very cheap) with that engine with "new" timing components that were broken and had bent valves. So these recommendations aren't just archaic, old school, uncle bob, I heard it from my neighbor stories. I'd install new Subaru belt, timing belt idlers, tensioner, water pump. Done. If you want to be cost effective - install a new Subaru belt and cogged pulley ($100 for both). Those are the most common failure items by light years. Check the tensioner while it's apart, if the hydraulic seal is wet (leaking), replace it. You can avoid the water pump - if you're doing this work yourself they're not hard to do at all, they don't fail often, and they just leak. It's not going to strand you, it'll give a warning when you notice drips/smoke/low coolant, not a big deal if you pay attention. I'd leave the original water pump before I'd install an aftermarket one. If you do go with a lower cost option - particularly if you're using aftermarket parts - consider checking the components after 2 years or 50,000 miles. I wouldn't expect 100k from them, but then again, if they do fail they seemingly fail at random mileages, not just early.

plus 1000 on what GD said... do NOT go with Gates or Felpro, unless you want to do all this work again and/or possible do major damage to the engines Gates kits used to be ok, but not anymore. Not for several years now

Just bought a 2006 Outback Wagon that had bad tailgate wiring. Wires on both sides were broken,so I just replaced the entire harness. Replaced the harness and the circuit that powers up the radio, dome lights etc kept popping as soon as fuse was installed with the car ignition off. Crazy, thought the harness would have taken care of that, but no. Did some reading and some testing and thought, what the hell, pull the radio based on what I was seeing. Well, when the radio came out, it was rattling like a box of nuts and bolts in an empty box. I shook it for a few minutes gently to see what it was and all of the sudden, coins start coming out of the cd slot. .37 later the radio is empty but dead. No more circuit popping. Put in a 05 Radio I had on the shelf in and I am off to the races......with a radio. I have never seen that before. LOL

I have actually found toast and toys in VHS and 8-track players. They go in a ziplock bag and returned to the customer.

Well, took her out for a couple of drives with the temp sensor installed. Works a treat, now have an accurate digital readout of the top rad hose temp. However, last time I took her out, it sat at 40 (minimum readout) for ages, and then spiked to 90 very suddenly. It then proceeded to sit in the mid 90s for the rest of the drive, spiking to 107 (!!!!!!!) at one point for a couple of seconds at rest, before cooling off. Switching on the e fan manually (which is definitely working) helped a bit. Diagnosis IMO is bad thermostat. I was intending on replacing it anyway. Have ordered a 160 C thermostat, gaskets etc. I have also done the twin e fan mod ( ) on Gertie (my wagon) and I will be replacing the temp switch with the Hyundai part when I do the thermostat on the sedan. I have also ordered a new radiator as I suspect the current one is a bit blocked from when I did the system flush. $200, cheap insurance. I think the thermo fan hub is ok, as it spins when cold and locks up when the engine is hot. If replacing the thermostat, radiator, and fan switch doesn't help temps then I may have blown the HG when it spiked... Really hoping not. I've also ordered a new temp sender so will see if that helps the factory gauge read properly. Should I replace the water pump? Seems to pump ok at the moment, but while I'm in there... May as well rip it out and fit an EJ257!

Not even enough for a 12oz PBR.