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He’s speaking from data driven, very specific experience, and has researched failure modes rather than asinine regurgitation most people resort too. You can search his past comments on them on this forum. They are very informative if you really want to know. “Garbage” is relative. I’ll over simplify. Any average daily driver Subaru will make 200k+ on ANY filter and ANY oil that’s changed often and incurs no major issues. Brand and minor weight variance doesn’t matter. your experience with 3 Subarus is a prime example. Correlation doesn’t mean causation. I’ve maintained dozens of Subarus past 200k and they’ll do fine on the cheapest filter off the shelf. So that’s all anecdotal. Given that you seem on top of maintenance and incur no extreme use or issues you would have made 200k on those cars with any filter in the store.people do it all the time It’s the norm. I help people with Subarus and most people do not ever read a car forum or care what brand filter they get. That’s a lot of people - they routinely make 200k without blinking. Since that’s true, Subaru filters offer no advantage for that nominal use and you can easily make 200k running them. So does everyone buying the cheapest filter on the shelf. The assumption that Subaru filters are better in this regard doesn’t hold water. What happens when oil changes are extended or a vehicle sees above average use (towing, racing, aggressive driving, 400,000 miles, performance, aggressive off-roading, etc), or when complications arise (oil loss, headgaskets, missed or extended oil change intervals, overheating, cylinder misfires, knock sensor failures...etc), can lead to excessive heat and systems degradation in the engine...chiefly oil overheating, localized overheating within the engine, and debris contamination. This is when differences in oil and filter matter the most. Not during nominal daily driver use and oil conditions. Most conversations conflate all those things and ignore those contexts and everyone is right and every is wrong all at the same time. That’s why oil conversations and discussions and opinions are nearly worthless. Which filters offer better protection under those extenuating circumstances is when the actual data driven differences between them matters. And Subaru filters do not win the day there. They will “work” on the most basic level. No one is suggesting they cause issues. But compared to other filters and the outlier circumstances where filters would become an issue...Subarus aren’t a prime choice.

I have two brand new, factor fenders (front left and front right) still in their boxes to sell. The boxes have never been opened. I ended up selling the car for next to nothing so the fenders didn't go with it. I'm in Carlisle, Pennsylvania. Go ahead and make me an offer. (seven one seven seven one three three three two six).

Cancel culture hasn’t hit USMB yet lol

Sorry, there are fewer features here. This forum is simpler and less feature friendly. It's not a monetized, add slinging, vendor flashing, reply baiting, employee hiring, conglomerate spin off of a larger corporate machine based in Germany. So yes it has a few less features but also is run, owned, and moderated by Subaru driving people donating their time.

Our 95 had a broken carbon brush that rides on the slip rings. It would charge fine at an idle, but would quit charging at higher RPMs. I think that was due to vibrations. Check the voltage at an idle and at higher RPMs. It should stay at 13.8 volts with headlights on or off. The alternator has a built in voltage regulator that can also cause the non charging problem. And it, or leaky diodes can also drain the battery. I have seen several aftermarket reman alternators output over 20 volts and that causes a lot of problems and repairs.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions, Pretty much the same as my old 99 2.2L. Finished the job yesterday, got the parts from Subaru Superstore in Chandler AZ. Total cost with shipping was $476.10, Belt, Tensioner, Pulleys, Thermostat, Water Pump and Gaskets. Locally would have been $682.54, they did send the wrong water pump so a $95.73 pump went up to $139.95, had to go get that locally in the Springs to complete the job. Someone had been in there before, the pump gasket was paper not metal like Subie uses and one of the clamps on the bypass hose was on the hose, just not over the nipple part coming off the pump, not sure if the T-Belt was done but it is now. New timing belt and pulleys, water pump, thermostat, hoses, coolant, fan belt, oil change, filters - she is good to go.