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Ido has a technique that seems to work. The other way I read of was an impact screwdriver, the kind you whack with a hammer. I expect it is the 'percussive shock' in common that helps them work. cue;

The good thing is that you’ve essentially already done this. Someone else posting the same question might be ill equipped and way over their head. It’s laid out like any other Subaru engine in terms of form factor. the ez engine bolts up to the transmission and engine crossmember of the 4 cylinder Subarus you’ve done. The timing chain is the same location and “line up the marks” ideology as Subaru belts, with one simple measurement suggested in the FSM.... Just with 100 asinine allen head cover bolts. If they’re rusted I’ve ordered a complete set of hex head bolts to replace them with instead. I posted a thread how to remove rusty ones with a chisel in a few seconds rather than drilling/torching. If it’s leaking coolant externally you might be able to avoid the headgasket replacement altogether. *Initial* *external* leaks of *factory* installed stock gaskets respond with basically a 100% success rate to Subaru $2.50 coolant conditioner. Each of those starred words is chosen carefully. If it’s the original gasket, which is likely, and it wasn’t left go to long, it would work here as well. But then you’re already sitting on a partially disassembled engine so working backwards might not be a good fit.

We don't break them in at all anymore. Now that we have a chassis dyno in the facility we run them about 10 miles on the dyno (after several heat cycles during start up testing) and then we tune them at WOT and hand the keys to the customer. We do this with break in oil in them and ask the customer return in 500 to 1000 miles for the first oil change. We give no stipulations on how they should be driven other than they should not be timid with it. There's no "break in" on a new car from the dealer is there? Why should my engines be any different if they are built to the same or better quality? GD

The parts are brand new, bearings feel fine.

Understood. I still plan to go ahead with this, but want to stress that I absolutely respect the rationales offered above. But where they are driven by necessary commercial/time considerations, I'm not so constrained; if I have the time available to invest so I can put my limited cash elsewhere (my eye's on a Supercat 20 in Texas at the moment), that's what I'm going to do. But the time/money equation isn't the only thing driving me, either. As the old Stiff Records slogan goes, "Try everything once, except incest and folk dancing". I haven't yet pulled apart an EZ30, I know that I'm going to learn some new stuff, and if that includes, "They were right, this is stupid, I wish I hadn't done it, and it's time to buy a JDM", I can accept that outcome too.

The loyale ones are different. The is a cone shaped steel mount that bolts to the car, and the rubber fits inside that. There is no way for the rubber cone to go through the steel mount into the hood. It could become unloaded, and fall downwards.

I’ve done Subarus insitu, including H6s, but not an EZ30. I don’t mind doing them that way sometimes but the EZ would be a time sucking basket case. Have multiple jacks so you can tilt the engine to a favorable angle side to side. Lift drivers side while working on drivers side for example. Almost roll the engine over. What is a TSM and where does it say it can be done in the engine?

Other folks with experience have mentioned cheaper pads are OK too. And I don't think that brake squeal necessarily is bad - just annoying. But, pads that dust a lot, wear-out quickly, don't have good initial bite (which may not show itself until winter) or don't modulate well, or, maybe even require you to file or grind on the backing plate just to move freely in the caliper? yeah, for a car I'm keeping for myself - one that I still recall what the braking felt like when it was new - I'll spend the xtra $8 or w'ever and then never look back. (I don't discount the possibility that an emergency could force someone to buy w'ever is at hand, or, buy cheap now, so you can upgrade immediately when funds become available.) I've been 'that guy' in the past, buying the cheapest hose or belt or sparkplug.......usually regretted it. This is an area where marketing doesn't help the consumer much, or, can be cause for concern if you don't have good advice to take with you when you shop. No parts store wants to lose your business because their competitor down the street has a fan belt that is $2 cheaper, so many consumables are available in a wide range of price....and quality. It's a race to the bottom.

Thanks moosens. Thinking back, these screws that I ordered previously for the Brat, they came with the "star" variety of lock washer. Probably the only type of lock washer that would work with the chamfer. Let's see if Subaru can still provide for us here...

TSB 07-179-20 This bulletin announces a design change made to the PRG control module. This change is in response to a limited number of customer concerns regarding the vehicle’s battery becoming discharged after the rear gate is left open for an extended period of time. The discharge occurs because current PRG control module logic keeps CAN communication active. Logic changes have been incorporated into the new module to allow the CAN system to “go to sleep” after a period of time to prevent current draw and optimize operation of the PRG system.