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Lets do basics. By "wont turn over" do you mean wont start or wont crank? Not cranking and the missing is more indicitive of a charging issue (bad alternator) If it does crank and not start do you have spark? Check the battery voltage.

unless the owners manual specifically calls for one of the oddly colored specialty coolants, then yes, the green stuff will be fine.. brand does not really matter. if not premixed 50/50, you will want to do that with a demineralized water (distilled). i like to buy the premixed stuff - a lot less hassle, just open and pour. as for getting notified, there is a little thing at the bottom of the typing box... turn it on.. pretty sure there are settings in your user profile area as well.

Make sure you burp the system when you fill it! Subaru engines like to lock in air bubbles.

I have an off topic question to begin with, is there a way to get e-mail notification when someone replies to my topic? I haven't posted to this forum since last year and I thought I used to receive an e-mail any time someone would reply. ---------------------------------------------------------------- I finally made the decision to buy an OEM Subaru radiator, about $275 including tax and shipping from an online Subaru parts place. I didn't feel like worrying whether or not all the holes would line up and if it would be a quality product. It should arrive next week. Thanks for all the RockAuto ordering tips. I can't wait to join in on the fun the next time I need parts. Thanks for your replies.

So, have never had to deal with Copper Crush Washers on Turbos... knock on wood... However when annealing crush washers for hydraulic systems and fuel systems for these cars and others; I've never sanded down the crush washers after annealing... Just hit them with the map gas torch on a sacrificial piece of wood until cherry red... momentarily watch the washer bathe in the dancing flames of the wood... and then let the thing cool down on its own... Never Quenched... Now, Turbos may be different, but I've not had a problem with fuel or hydraulic leaks with my no-sand no-quench method.

Yeah I did the same HID mod that i saw on here. Split the housings, sanded off the steps on the inside. Polished both sides of the lense. Mounted the projector inside the housing with a running light and sealed it back up. Any type of HID or LED will do poorly in the stock hosing.

Plus blue lights for driving are quite frankly, spoob. I hate them. They’re distracting, glarey and blinding. They should never have been allowed on the road. My 5c Bennie

Could of lost a few teeth on the timing belt, so its skipping around. Pull the dizzy cap and make sure the rotor spins evenly.

You're saying it won't turn over at all now? If that is the case check the battery power and connections at the battery and ground connections. Sometimes bad Ground and/or bad Battery Connections are the demon... Put the correct size socket on the crank pulley bolt and spin the engine over with a big ratchet or cheater bar to see that nothing has locked up or started to stick in the rotating assembly of the engine. I know its metric, but 7/8 fits well. Once the car is turning over and or starting again: Check that you are getting spark at all 4 ends of the spark plug wires, and that they are in the right order as el_freddo says. If that all checks out; maybe you still have a problem with dirty fuel? How old is the gas in the tank? Sometimes a dose of Stabil, Lucas Fuel Injector Cleaner, Heat, and/or all of the above work. Also, on 3rd gens (EA82s) there are TWO fuel filters... you only mention replacing one.

Yeah true that about the currency exchange. I didn’t make mention of that as I thought others would work it out. I guess that’s the old assume saying... Cheers Bennie