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I'm guessing that the problem is similar to what Toyota had with the 2010-2011 Prius headlights: voltage too high at the bulb due to larger than ideal wire in the headlight harness. (Maybe the same supplier for the Prius/Legacy headlight harness?) The fix for the Prius, which had an extended warranty, was to add about 1 meter wire length to the original headlight harness to cause the voltage to drop closer to the 12V nominal at the bulb: My Toyota Prius 2010 caught fire | Page 5 | PriusChat Looks like Subaru is replacing bulbs for free for 10 years, and you can apply for reimbursement: MC-10182590-9999.pdf (nhtsa.gov) Microsoft Word - snet_announcement_template.doc (nhtsa.gov)

They built a lot of variations on this one - I think some had mirrored scales, but probably the same meter movement. Right about the needle movement - that's what I've been alluding to in this thread. Even regular, low frequency (think 1Hz or less) periodic functions, whether sine, square, triangle, sawtooth. With an analog meter you see immediately what's happening. Digital: Just a lot of wild numbers bouncing around. Of course, lots of DVMs have the little bargraph down below to help, but it's not the same. A few years back I banged together a little CO2 controller for grow rooms - modern CO2 sensor with an analog output fed into an AVR to run the CO2 generator, room ventilation, etc. On the first pass I put a digital display on it for the ppm reading, but then built a second rev with a nice big analog meter instead, kinda just for fun. I tell you, even I was surprised at not only how much faster and easier to read it was, but also at its retro/sexy/cool vibe.

When I worked at a dealership, that's all we did was throw in a new bulb. Didn't even use OEM ones, as the warranty would pay for aftermarket

I was thinking about this overnight - why not just fit the tone wheel to the front of the crank pulley? That wouldn’t be hard to do, which had me thinking why you haven’t gone that way in the first place. Facebook sucks. Cheers Bennie

You know what Steptoe would try here?? The FPR vacuum line, suspecting fuel leaking from FPR to intake via the vacuum line....find a small, clear, hard acrylic fuel filter used for small engines and fit it in line in the vacuum line. You will need to sleeve tubes to make it work and hold vacuum for sure, but you should be able to monitor any fuel loss

Check fluid level - brake and trans and coolant for good measure. Alt test is a great suggestion. Charging issues can cause dash light weirdness in other Subarus. Id ignore the middle light it’s just telling you dynamic control is turned off because those other lights are on. Fix brake abs trans light and that one won’t come on.

What he said. It is 10 years old and far away so maybe not a good fit. But they do address older vehicles sometimes depending on the issue. Might be worth a call or stop in if you’re ever out that direction in the future. I’ve seen 10 year old multiple owner subarus repaired free by the dealer before. Legacy dash, legacy front coils, and ABS relay are examples I recall personally. Of course they might not either. Doesn’t it seem like they’d do more than a bulb change? If they install a bulb then the next time you change bulbs yourself - you’re right back to where you are now. Seems like if they’d want more longevity than that. That would irritate customers more than help. Voltage conditioners are designed to prolong bulb (and other devices) life and fidelity. Long haul trucks have used them to increase bulb life. The chief fatigue happens during voltage irregularities - start up, shut down, other devices with start up loads (compressors, etc). All that to say - if you see any flickering or other devices causing unexpected noises or symptoms that might indicate load changes you may want to take note.

Hey Bennie, thanks for the explanation on how the pull-clutch works. Those turbos sound complicated but I bet they are fun to drive. It's entirely possibly I'm just a jackass with an overloaded, underpowered vehicle driving around on too many inclines. But a man can dream, can't he!? I had never heard of NA-T (naturally aspirated to turbo) conversions on Subarus before, but I see that's a popular thing. Very interesting, thanks for the heads up! So would it be possible to use a 2006 WRX turbo clutch on my 2000 EJ251 NA engine? Would I need the turbo pressure plate and flywheel as well, or would the disc work with the stock non-turbo EJ25 components? Thanks for the advice on the pressure plate. In that case, I will keep an eye out for kits rather than just the disc. 30k is probably what will be on this clutch when I do replace it around New Years or whenever it gives out. It's actually still in pretty good working condition and I haven't felt any slippage for days, but I don't want to risk unexpected down time again. This past year has been like a college class in auto repair with all the parts that have gone bad on my poor Legacy.

Don't need to be the original owner. As long as it's not salvage. But, probably not worth the drive for headlight bulbs... I've used drop-in LED "bulbs" in several applications with good results (brighter, but without being any more obnoxious to other vehicles, I've been on the receiving end of all of our vehicles' lights). But, being that it's not what the optics were designed for, every combination should be carefully tested, and aimed (I install one LED and compare the 2 patterns against the side of my garage).

If your '84 hatch has a 1.8L EA81 with power steering and a 4" SJR lift then there is a bolt in solution. Find a steering shaft/coupler from a 1998 Forester non-turbo 2.5L. It is the perfect length. Any other configuration just go to a pick-n-pull and look for something that fits. Failing that have someone weld one up for you.

I would correct this. That's almost certainly exacerbating the problem as it sounds like it's still pumping fuel into the engine when it's not running. There is zero good to running the pump longer than the ECU wants it, and plenty of risks. I would recommend wiring up the self-shutoff control like it should be (that's what one of those diodes is for). Jumper the read mode connectors (or, ground the wire from the ECU if those connectors are gone), and the CEL will flash out codes. Yea, figure out if it's just flooding one cylinder. Check the vacuum line after the FPR for fuel. Grab a noid light to see if the ECU is holding that injector open.