Leaderboard

So I recently replaced the blown-out cat on my 2000 Legacy with a high quality one from Bosal. However, I noticed the new catalytic converter bodies are shaped differently from the old catalytic converter bodies; they are round and cylinder shaped rather than an oblong, flattened shape like 1 of the 2 OEM cat bodies. For this reason, and also because I was short on time, I didn't even attempt to transfer the OEM cat heat shield components to the new cat. I have, however, removed them from the old cat and kept them just in case. I wanted to ask folks here if they think I should try fitting the old cat heat shield components to the new cat. The old cat had extended flanges and holes in those flanges to allow for installation of the heat shield components. The new Bosal cat doesn't have those at all, but I could probably get it to fit with a bit of bending and maybe some slightly longer bolts. It wouldn't be a perfect fit but it would be more than nothing. I know temperature affects how efficiently the cat works, but maybe Bosal just designed their cats such that the extra heat shielding isn't necessary? Not seeing any advisement from the manufacturer regarding this issue. Photos of old uninstalled cat (heat shields already removed) and new installed cat attached.

FYI. I've seen it lately, weekend before last. It exists just as it did up until the posts stopped coming. Sitting dusty in a nice safe garage in the care of someone will put it together the rest of the way someday.

With the ownership of Toyota I absolutely do not understand this car. In Netherlands we would get a 50% road tax bonus for any plug-in hybrid but only non-plug-in version is being sold here. 50 miles electric range would be interesting, especially here were that fits in most driving for 80% of the people.

Use genuine intake manifold gaskets! Don’t skimp, not worth it. Also replace all coolant hoses while you’ve got full access to the intake manifold. You’ll thank yourself later for this work. And there’s that pesky little hose under the intake manifold to deal with too. Cheers Bennie

Fair enough. As far as repairing the motor goes, it's pretty much like any DC motor, so both the brushes and commutator are going to wear and get dirty. So maybe it just needs a cleaning and a new set of brushes, but maybe the wear to the commutator is such that it has to be replaced, and then you're futzing with the windings, so this is all stuff best left to shops that specialize in... wait for it... motor rewinding. Sure, they used to do more of it here, but now it's a more disposable globalized society that doesn't want to pay North American rates for that kind of service, so "Mexico". While I'm certain you can find someone locally who does that, I doubt you're going to want to pay them some multiple of the cost of a new starter. Just how it is.

Thanks all, it's been a long project that's for sure. She's got 200 post-resto kilometres on the clock now as of today, I've been fiddling with the ignition map adding more advance bit by bit and wow is that twin port really coming alive now. And that L series front end swap has made a huge difference to the handling, it's a blast to drive. I'll put up a decent Youtube vid soon when I get around to shooting something.

You are correct lonstorm66, I just popped outside to look at the twins and, while the difference is less than a half inch, you are correct. The clamping surface in the stock mount IS the lowest point of the mount, where the camber plate doesn't sit quite as far below the strut tower. My statement stands for OEM EJ front strut mounts, but OEM EA82 front strut mounts are indeed different.

Awesome man!! glad to see things happening. Let me know when you want some help with the pick up tube. Jesse