Leaderboard

Thanks guys. yeah, it feels REALLY good to have my wheels rolling again! but i really need to give a shout out to my other half (who has the patience of a saint, lol) for the final fix. @Stelcom66 - the metal part (left side) has a pin on the back (circled bit) of it that is supposed to be in the slot of the piece on the right.. once those two were properly aligned (by straightening the metal bit on the left some more and getting the pin to engage in the slot), and the cable readjusted correctly, all is right in Suby land again. I did learn a valuable trick with all of this... to get proper alignment, and to adjust the cable per FSM instructions, you are supposed to have both the interior shift lever and the tranny in neutral... to have tranny in neutral, you align the two levers, and the hole in the switch plate, and shove a pin thru all 3 to hold things in the proper orientation - small allen wrench worked a treat. shifting is stupid easy now, especially when compared to how it used to be, LOL - was really stiff, and had to work at it to get into the lower forward gears.. now I know why!

Did you use a genuine tensioner or an aftermarket one? It’s odd that it came and went. Got any codes? That could point you in the right direction. If you did a big end you’ll be sure to hear it on start up when cold. It shouldn’t come and go when driving, but knocking on start up is a definite sign of an impending issue. I hope it’s a tensioner issue! Cheers Bennie

And we have LIFT OFF!!! it was indeed because the shift linkage was not engaging the inhibitor switch.. poor tranny didnt know what was up, so.. got the lever straightened out a bit more and engaging the switch correctly... readjusted the cable, and everything seems to be a go.. we have park, reverse, neutral and drive! yay!

Ooooo! Pretty light show!