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They don't include enough grease for this application and it's not very good grease for this environment. And it's better if the grease is allowed to flow into the inner pocket and between the bearings. You will have more grease and it will stay cooler overall (just don't pack it completely full or it will overheat). GD

Awesome info. Thanks. I'll knock some stuff around this evening. el_freddo, the wagon is running GREAT!! It needs some brake work so I have something to learn there. Real squishy. They've been bled. Must be something else going on. My friend sold me a 97 Impreza so my plan is to take the EJ out of the impreza and put it in the wagon. I'll buy the adapter plate off https://www.sjrlift.com/collections/engine-swap/products/ea-to-ej-swap-kit there. I'm a bit intimidated by the wiring harness work. Should have a fun wagon at the end of it though

Thanks again! Car in bay. Most stuff removed. Maybe an hour and I’ll have that engine exposed. Later today I expect.

Scan for engine codes or pending codes - post numbers here Check vacuum hoses, PCV hoses for any leaks or disconnected or cracks - if the brake booster isn’t fully seated it won’t start - too big of a vacuum leak. Check for any disconnected wires from valve cover or other previous work. Check plugs and wires again. Compression should be within 20% of one another. You’re over the compression difference threshold but 135 should start. But is it a legit 135? To ensure good compression results the throttle should be open and use a power source besides the battery (jumper to a other car or power pack, etc). Although a prime condition battery does work just fine. The last cylinder can test less than the 1st if the battery is getting drained from the first three cylinders tests. Was the throttle open and power source consistent? Ideally each cylinder is tested 2-3 times to verify results.

Wow. I just tapped it and it was the EASIEST thing to remove. Kicking myself for not trying yesterday but it was getting late anyways. Ya'll are the best. Thanks for clueing me in.

Sounds like they’re trying to use that relay as an ignition switch replacement. By one wire “joining” another, do you mean two wires into one or the coloured wire listed then turns into the next listed colour, remaining as one wire in the system (like a piece of wire added to lengthen the factory wiring)? Time to bust out a multi meter and find out which of those unknown wires are earths. If no earth wires are in there it’s time to put power to each wire individually to see what that wire operates - you might have to go and flick switches in the car to find out. There could be multiple items on one wire. Draw a diagram to keep reference Some of those wires sound like main power or main switches power wires for accessories. This is partly concerning as the load on that relay is most likely too great for it to properly handle, plus there’s a question around how these wires are fused between the battery and the relay. You might also find some of these wires (or all!) are the main switches power wires to the fuse box under the dashboard. After you’ve done all of the above, it’s time to work out what they cut out, why, and what they were intending to achieve. Then reverse their work back to the factory setup or to something that’s safer and more serviceable for you to work with. Sorry for the essay! I feel like you’re close to having this one sorted with a bit of work involved! Cheers Bennie

They are off the shelf electric motor/industrial bearings. 6207-C3. If you wanted shielded bearings those would be a 6207-ZZ-C3 or 6207-2Z-C3. If you want sealed (what I would recommend) you want a 6207-2RS-C3. Pull out the inner seals, wash out all the grease they come with and pack them with Amsoil waterproof grease. Leave the inner seals out only put a little grease in the pocket between the bearings. When operating you only want the whole assembly about 1/3 full of grease. And McGuire will have these on the shelf. You don't need to buy them from an auto parts supplier. These are industrial 6000 series radial ball bearings used in literally everything. If you want to be really slick use 7207 axial thrust bearings and set the preload with spacers. GD

M20 x 1.5

So let me explain why its not so great for the water pump. when the clutch starts to grab due to seizing or from age and whatever other reason the fan starts to spin at the same speed as the pump for extended periods of time and unless the fan is balanced perfectly (usually not) the water pumps internal bearings will see that and start to wear, also needing the belt to be tighter so it wont slip plus the force its pulling on the shaft forward at high revs. the benefit to them over the electric fan hardly justifies the extra wear on the water pump. being turbo should warrant having a higher CFM electric fan anyways

I think I have have some of those. fans.... Mine being an EA82. Non turb... It is the same mechanical fan, correct? I didn't even run them..... took them out at some point.... just used electric. Let me know... I will look for them...