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Make sure the vacuum lines for the MAP sensor and MAP sensor switching solenoid are EXACTLY as indicated on the under-hood sticker. If I were you I would run this with a standalone such as the LINK Monsoon. While it may run with an NA ECU it's definitely not ideal. The Forester ECU doesn't understand positive manifold pressure and in fact it's probably blind to it. The stock map sensor is probably a 1.15 bar, etc. GD

Stock ECU is junk. Don't try to *manipulate* it's digits with some piggy back box. That's just junk being assimilated by more junk. And MegaGarbage is also junk. It's old now and they never work the way you think (hope) they will. The LINK ECU's have the EA82 optical trigger programmed into them (since it's identical to the Nissan 360 Optical pattern). They will easily run the EA82T and then later an EJ when you bag up that hot garbage and send it to make beer cans like you should have already done. GD

No clue on the squeak, but put the stock intake back on. Unless you have the car professionally tuned for the (now sure to be) different MAF scaling caused by you altering airflow through the sensor with an intake that does nothing other than allow you to hear a sucking noise and "think" you "feel" more power (you don't - it's in your head), all you will do is wreck the fuel trims, drivability, and fuel economy by causing the computer to try to learn around the sewer pipe you replaced your highly engineered intake with. GD

Since yours doesn’t have EGR you’re just removing anything EGR related since it doesn’t exists any more. Yes install non EGR intake. That takes care of the intake side The engine side there’s a hole in the back of the head. Insert like he just said or like for old gen put a metal plate over the head port with sealant, cut the original EGR tube and weld or seal it shut, etc. just needs blocked. its just the exhaust port side of the head so don’t over think it likes it’s hard or a big deal. I think that was my thought before I had ever seen it.

Water pump and crank should be easily repairable. Post a picture of any problem areas if you need help. Remove crank pulley and water pump and replace the water pump. A used pulley from any EA82 is easy to find or repair the one you have. Get a Subaru water pump gasket or use water pump tack on the gasket if you use a flimsy aftermarket gasket some of them are horribly thin and prone to leak. There are two style water pumps - you’ll want to look into which one you need While doing that repair Id install new timing belts, timing belt pulleys, cam seals, cam cap oring and crank seal and reseal the oil pump. get the cam crank and oil pump seals from Subaru. Better quality, I’ve seen those older generation Subaru aftermarket seals not fit well and leak . That’s a long list but it adds little time to the overall water pump job you already neeed to do and will be done right for reliability if you’re going to use and drive it. Timing belts have to come off to replace the water pump anyway so most of the labor is already done for all that stuff. and yes jt can all be done in the vehicle. remove the radiator gives a lot more space particularly for someone not familiar with subarus or EA82s. Otherwise it’s tight For engine - Use an EJ22. Simpler and easy to find parts. The ER27 has some very difficult to find parts. It’s a good engine otherwise but not easy or ideal for quite a few reasons. But if you have any questions I’ve owned like two dozens ER27s, and have a few right now.

Keep your eye on Craigslist and Offer Up as well as the Facebook Marketplace

The stuff specific to the XTs (body and interior) are some of the rarest parts in the Subaru world, just the wrong combination of uncommon and undesirable. The classifieds here, and the various old school and/or XT Facebook groups are probably your best bet.

The important part, is that the outer diameter (technically, circumference) of all 4 tires match. Changing wheel size is no big deal. For anyone's future reference. Tire sizes can vary from one manufacturer to another, so it's very difficult to match the circumference from one to another. It would be possible to measure the circumference (not the diameter, 3/32 difference in tread depth can translate to ~1/2" circumference). BUT, to be accurate it should be mounted on the same-width wheel and inflated when measuring. By the time you mount and measure enough tires to find a good match, you could have just bought the right one (or a new set).

looks like a Fumoto Valve .... lift the lever and push it... you can read about it on their website. https://www.fumotousa.com/