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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/23/21 in all areas

  1. Clearly you have never tuned anything at all and don't understand. I have assisted a customer in adapting a LINK to his EA82T. Which he did successfully. So I know 100% for a fact it will work and can be easily done. He got it running and (of course) promptly blew the HG's on it..... because it's HOT GARBAGE as I have mentioned on about 1000 occasions already. I don't have to have dyno tuned an EA82T to know exactly how to do it. It's a 4 cycle piston engine with port injection and a turbo - just like all the others. You could tune an SR20DET and it would be EXACTLY THE SAME process. The number one rule of tuning (tied for first place with buying injectors for which there is published data) is you GIVE THE ENGINE WHAT IT WANTS. And you will NOT be able to do this with a piggyback and the seat of your pants. You need a full stand alone at a dyno that can test HP, torque, monitor AFR, and you need det cans to listen for detonation.... and you need to MOST LIKELY turn the engine DOWN from where it was stock because it's OLD AS F and wasn't particularly reliable in stock form. Knowing where to STOP when tuning engines like the EA82T or a Mazda rotary is the difference of experience and trust me NO ONE you will be able to talk to here or elsewhere is stupid enough to have spent years tuning the EA82T to approach and exceed it's limitations so they can get a good "feel" for where to stop. Just like a rotary - you detonate it ONCE and you blow the apex seals. You get even a little stupid with the EA82T and you'll crack a head and/or blow out the HG's. The difference is that if you turn up the already sh1tty EA82T you'll just blow holes in it. That's the difference. And I don't need to have "tuned" one to know this. Ask anyone here..... In any case - what *exactly* are you hoping to gain with "finer control"? And what do you actually mean by "finer control"? Do you even know how fine of control the factory ECU has? What do you suppose you could do *better* than the hundreds of engineers that couldn't make this engine a winner working for Subaru being paid to design it? GD
    1 point
  2. You sirs all deserve a medal! You all nailed it. That's exactly what happened, I don't think I ever needed a clutch, some mechanic my buddy recommended! So I jacked the front of the car up, took the front tires off and put it in 2wd and first gear and the passenger side axle is spinning freely, but not actually spinning the wheel. I check the axle nut and it was loose, like I could remove it with my bare hands loose. The driver side axle was not spinning at all however I think that may be due to no limited slip differential? therefore the pass. side wheel getting more power/power first? Stripped hub is what it looks like, that's what that grinding was before replacing the clutch, just as George1943 said. Thank you all so much for your help! Now I just have to find a hub assembly and replace the axle, just glad I don't have to redo the clutch or something...
    1 point
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