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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/19/21 in all areas
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Greetings all! Name is Jason, and hailing from Southern Arizona. Picked up my first Subaru a few weeks ago after trying to find a replacement for my Minivan that got totaled. Found a 2008 Impreza Sedan 5 speed for a little over 4k on Craigslist. Drove it, bought it, love it. Here to hang out and see what's out there for this non-turbo toy of mine. Super happy with it, aside from having to change out an oil pressure switch and VVT solenoid. Fix computers by day for my job. Hoping to maybe get a track day in now and then, but have to keep the car running good for now. We'll see what the future hold.2 points
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Awesome to get an update on this! With the EFI pump you might want to look into running a “swirl pot” or surge tank - have the factory low pressure pump feed into the tank, the EFI pump suck from the tank, fuel return line plumb into the tank and the tank overflow run back into the factory tank (or T in between the low pressure pump and the tank). This will stop the EFI pump starving of fuel and dying prematurely as a result. Plus it’ll help too when off-roading with some of the odd angles we get our vehicles in Looks good though! Cheers Bennie2 points
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No idea why the low miles. Nothing obvious about it being towed. Came from the North East, had a meeting with a deer, and that's really it. It's had a few owners, and that's it. If the track you're talking about is Inde Motorsport, I was there back in 2013 w/ a 1988 Honda Accord LXi. Did a morning of Autocross, and hot lapping the full track in the afternoon. Have ridden shotgun at Mussleman with friends when drifting went on, and also took my 92 Civic to Arroyo Seco back in 2016 for some hot lapping. A little seat time, but not much. Wanting more.1 point
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Welcome and enjoy. You plan on heading to that private track east of Tucson ? Just curious. 4k ?? Wow! Guessing that was a tow behind vehicle with an RV Would like to hear why such low miles. Enjoy !1 point
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Good Morning Everyone! Just wanted to post an update with y'all since I haven't posted in a while on here on where the car is at... I have started the EJ222 swap but I am doing a lot more than just that, I am also putting in a 5 speed dual range and upgrading and adding a bunch of other things too I won't be able to list every little thing because I honestly don't remember every little thing but as I go I will talk about quite a few of them. First things first; The next 3 pictures are of when I took the stock fuel pump, filter, and hoses out of the car and replaced them with a universal fuel pump, fuel filter and 5/16's fuel injection lines and clamps. I have also installed a cool fuel filter in the engine bay with the engine that you will see uploaded here as well. I will also upload pictures of the dash and other random engine bay interior pictures of where I am at. Currently the entire dash is out of the car, I am redoing all of the foam under the dash for the HVAC system as well as the dash pad just for mounting it and noise reduction. I AM IN SEARCH OF A HVAC PIECE THE ONE THAT HAS THE BLOWER MOTOR IN IT MINE IS ALL CRACKED WHICH IS WHY I CANT CHANGE MY BLOWER MOTOR LOCATION. Currently working on tying engine bay together and interior which consists of soldering wiring together, tucking, cleaning and figuring out where I am routing stuff(like my engine bay fuel filter that took me a while) and like next is where I am going to route my air filter. I am not going to put my dash back on though until I fire it and make sure wiring is proper and everything works. I am installing an aftermarket voltmeter, oil pressure and temp gauge, all other gauges are staying stock. Also will be installing aftermarket stereo, speakers, cigarette lighter, and switch port. I will upload a picture of my gauge cluster as well. Exterior wise I will be doing different tires and a front bumper for sure since I have no front bumper of any type right now.1 point
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Just investigated the issue further, and it appears to have been my aftermarket Duralast clutch master cylinder. Sprayed some lithium grease inside the protective boot and the noise changed completely. The click is 95% gone but there is a bit of squeaking now (probably from the aerosol solvent). Total garbage part despite having a "lifetime warranty". Got it because one or both of the cylinders went bad after a clutch replacement job and I was in a tight spot without a working vehicle or many options. I'll probably end up replacing it if it continues just because it's so damn annoying. Pierced a small hole in that boot so the solvent can dissipate overnight and I'll see how it behaves in the morning. Just investigated the issue further, and it appears to have been my aftermarket Duralast clutch master cylinder. Sprayed some lithium grease inside the protective boot and the noise changed completely. The click is 95% gone but there is a bit of squeaking now (probably from the aerosol solvent). Total garbage part despite having a "lifetime warranty". Got it because one or both of the cylinders went bad after a clutch replacement job and I was in a tight spot without a working vehicle or many options. I'll probably end up replacing it if it continues just because it's so damn annoying. Pierced a small hole in that boot so the solvent can dissipate overnight and I'll see how it behaves in the morning. UPDATE: Issue is 100% resolved. The lithium grease spray inside the boot of the clutch master cylinder did the trick. No more clicking, and the squeaking subsided with the evaporation of the spray solvent. I've seen this issue posted on other Subaru forums and for other types of vehicles. Just a heads up that this appears to be the fix. I'd recommend using a hooked mini pick to temporarily stick a foreign object like a chopstick between the cylinder boot and shaft to allow a gap so the solvent can evaporate overnight. I only pierced the boot because I got frustrated laying upside down in the footwell for so long.1 point
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I was talking about setting the choke as in getting the car ready to drive for the day, not tuning or "setting up" the choke. On the carbs I'm familiar with, they require setting up the choke with drill bit sizes and specific clearances for pull off rods and the like, and then the choke is fine tuned for driver preference or location after that. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/the-lost-art-of-choke-adjustment Lots of people that never owned a carbed car think you can just hop right in it and take off without knowing or caring about the choke. The owner's manual is long gone and they don't know there is actually a specific procedure you go through to start the car, ie. setting the choke.1 point
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In the ever-present chase for fuel mileage, the rings were left too loose, and they burn oil. The replacement engines will get worse fuel mileage. We had many complaints at the dealership where I worked, as the advisors didn't make this clear enough up front. The lawsuit brought the warranty up to 100k miles, I don't know if there was a time limit on that. Early warranty repair was to replace rings, but then they changed to using brand-new shortblocks, either to reduce labor cost, or problems, or both. Even still, it's no small job, and we saw more than a few comebacks due to oil leaking from the timing cover or cam carriers. Running 5w30 (synthetic, of course) helps. You can use a used engine from newer model with a few small changes. A friend of mine bought a 2011 Forester with a blown engine, not knowing it was an FB. And he ended up getting an engine from a 2015 or so and swapped it in. Sorry, I don't remember all the details, but it wasn't anything major. There must be some documentation on it.1 point
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Well, after a nice slumber Talkeetna rides again! I had her sitting in storage waiting for her time to shine. cant believe its been almost 2 years, wild. Anyways She has been pulled out and wheels and tires fitted, front fenders trimmed, and the interior was given a first round of cleaning. Next up is actually getting the front CV situation sorted. After much thought and a AHA! moment I know what needs to be done. The front control arms need to be lengthened somewhere around an inch or so. the front track width does not match the rear. and that will sort out a couple issues I have so far. I have been driving it RWD for the last few days and man its a blast, the suspension on this thing is killer, you cant feel curbs when you drive off them, its like they arent there. And here she is next to my other rig, a 1991 astro van awd with 6" lift and 31s, 2 speed tcase and winch. with awning and a bed.1 point
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That picture is of a GL-10 wagon. It has air suspension and MPFI.1 point