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Last year I bought a storage unit full of NOS and quality used Gen 1 parts. I have multiple engines, transmissions, doors, a hood, seats, trim for doors, drip rails, rocker panels, etc. Multiple interior and exterior pieces, lights, sun visors, grab handles, door panels, grilles. Needless to say I don't need it all and it needs to go. I will not bother posting pictures here but if you are on Facebook a lot of my stuff is posted there. I am willing to ship on your dime. Shoot me a text @ 253-754-7677 for your specific needs, and I can send you pictures.

Hi all My first Subie was a rust bucket 05 legacy from New Hampshire. Glad I switched to 3rd gen a couple years ago! Got it at 194k miles from a Garrett who drove it as a bakery delivery car in Port Townsend, WA. Before that it belonged to a tractor mechanic in Oregon. He named it Dixie and that has stuck so far; I was driving through Malheur National Forest in eastern Oregon when I hit 200k miles, and lo and behold, two bends down the road, I passed ‘Dixie Campground.’ That pretty much set it in stone. Dixie sat for 8 months after I bought it, since I was overseas. Started right up after a battery charge and a few tries! Since then I’ve started working on it. This is my only car and the first I’ve worked on, so you can expect a careful approach from me. specs manufactured 06/1989 1990 Loyale S.W., S/R 5MT, SOHC SPFI 1.8 L EA82, all stock. 185 tires on stock 13” wheels Ruby Pearl red Panasonic a/c drive belt configuration but with no idler pulley Came with a wealth of printed information and a bunch of parts, from the previous previous owner. Apart from the resources available here and elsewhere online, the are some technician‘s reference booklets and ‚insider tips‘ about many of the common EA82 issues such as lifter tick. Push-Button awd routed to a dash switch b/c the button is missing Seeps oil from left, right, front, and back Called the mechanic on the timing belt change sticker, apparently the last owner didn’t have enough cabbage for more than just the belts (20k miles ago). The covers are seeping oil now and TOD, the HLA demon, showed up a couple months ago, so I want to get those covers off ASAP to inspect/replace pumps, pulleys, seals, belts, tensioners, etc. I‘m preparing for the job atm. I switched to 15w40 but still get loud ticking while warming the engine up. The head or valve cover gaskets (excuse my ignorance) and oil pump are all pretty leaky, so no surprise. Blew a strut in the snow, so my passenger rear twerks over bumps. I‘m collecting parts for the suspension improvements suggested by 2.7 turbo loyale (thanks for all you do). so far I’ve replaced the: alternator and drive belts headlight bulbs battery spark plugs transaxle gear oil (extra s + 0.5 qt rislone engine treatment) oil (15w40 due to lifter tick) oil and air filters tires (185s) I like this car a lot. The more I do for it, the more it teaches me. Hoping to connect with a couple local folks eventually. Thanks for maintaining such a great community. cheers from Olympia, jon (it‘s pronounced ‘yone,’ it’s German)

As @idosubaru indicated, the Legacy/OBW hitch and Forester hitch are completely different - different frames. I've had excellent luck at the self-serve yards here, and (surprisingly) the big bolts used to attach the hitches have never been frozen/seized/rusted in place (though we don't have salt air...). Always been able to pull them with nothing more than a 1/2" ratchet/breaker bar and flat wrenches, and they set me back about $30. The only annoying part of the job is getting the charcoal box out of the way.

These aftermarkets are about as light as they get - I don't do any heavy towing either - sailboats that are usually no more than 500 lb. total weight. No such thing as a bumper hitch here - there's simply no load bearing structure in there to attach to.

If the cap is on tight, then get new Subaru gas cap. Subarupartsforyou.com is located at Dan Perkins dealership in Milford. Order on line, wait for confirmation and then pickup at counter with no shipping cost and online pricing. use code reader/eraser like THIS erase codes then do the sequence for setting system readiness. It's posted here somewhere. I think here in CT we can get away with one "not ready" and still pass. I had the P0420 through 4 emissions inspections by clearing the code, doing the dance and then straight to testing site.

Yes. There’s one head and block combo that needs thicker headgaskets or the pistons and valves will touch but I think that happens with the earlier 96-98 EJ25 blocks.