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Don't suppose you would be willing to share that trick, would you? we just recently got our first hydraulic clutch Subaru here... the 2004 Forester... last manual Sube was a 1991 Legacy, lol

You dismount the slave and clamp it fully retracted with a large C-clamp, etc. Then you have an assistant slowly depress the pedal with the bleeder cracked. At the bottom of the stroke you close the bleeder and have your assistant pull the pedal back up. After they do this you watch the level in the reservoir over the next several seconds. It will slowly drop as the master cylinder pump chamber is filled through the tiny orifice between it and the reservoir. If it does not drop have your assistant pump the pedal up and down rapidly a few times and then pause to watch the fluid level drop. Once the level stops dropping you repeat this procedure several times till you see a strong flow of fluid from the bleeder with no bubbles. Once you are done close the bleeder and check the pedal - it should be rock hard (slave is still clamped). Reinstall the slave and you're done. With two people that know how to perform this procedure together the entire process usually takes about 5 minutes. GD

Originally, it was a one-key vehicle, but often they'll have two keys by this point in time.

OK drove from CT to Maine to see daughter and had everything ready to change oil and filter on the 19 OB. Due to the additional underbody cladding, the oil drain plug is tucked WAY up inside a 5x5 opening and makes a friggin' mess as it spurts out. Seriously considering a Fumoto valve as it is protected in the recess and a hose can be attached to direct the oil. I can confirm that it is a 14mm bolt and can ALSO confirm that it uses a smaller crush washer than the ones I've used for years on Subie oil and tranny plugs and that if you use the older larger washers, oil WILL leak. Don't ask me how I know.

Did you use the engine mounts off the old engine or the new one? We have found that old squishy mounts contribute greatly to clutch shudder. Bleeding the hydraulic clutches is easy. There's a trick to it. GD

@twitch You still around? I sold it. . .

Thanks. I used the same method for removing the old bush - the same method I have always had to resort to, that being - remove rubber surrounding crush tube, remove crush tube then fit hacksaw blade and cut through the original bush outer shell, then belt it out starting with a chisel to loosen things up. This time, I used a recipro saw, saving sweat and bent what was a new blade. I then trimmed up the cut line of the old outer shell, closed it up in a vice and welded it up in order to make a press tool to remove the moustache bar bushes , in a vice. Vice power even in my big Russian vice was not enough. They will go out same hacksaw cut method I think

car ran really great today. One scary moment, none of the vehicles in front of me swerved, then, there's this instant road gator right in the middle of my lane! I just managed to 'translate' over ontothe rumble strip to pass to the left of it. The vehicles in front of me(big rigs and pick-ups) must have straddled it but it looked kinda long to me. All I'd need to have happen is tag one end of it with the inner shoulder of a tire and it would probably destroy the underside of my car somehow! The one fill-up I've checked was 25mpg. that's cruise set variously on 70-75-80. may have started with a tailwind, but got a heavier head/cross wind later. had some rain in 2-3 areas too. Car may be 'wandering' slightly. Could be the coupla extra lbs/psi I added in the tires. maybe have the alignment checked later on. never been aligned. Probably check the oil level in the morning. Considering dropping tire pressure but, not a big concern, just curious. seen an older lady in an Outback Sport in Vernon (eat at Bevo's if you're ever there and want a good burger) Saw another Impreza pass me, had some red lettering on the left in the back. Dark color with the crossbars on. I'm not good at picking out year-models) overnighting in Amarillo. My hip starts hurting after a coupla hours and really can't do the trip 'one and done' anymore. stupid bursitis. probably go over the the Texan for a steak in a few minutes. MMMmmmmm - steak........

Just get cheap NGK plugs and gap them at 25. They will put less stress on the ignition system and last longer with a smaller gap. GD

That additional air is added weight and lost fuel economy. Better to fill that tire with Helium or Hydrogen to offset the weight cost. Might as well do all of them while you're at it. GD

This is the item that dies with heat in the dizzy: I don’t know if they run a condenser with the electronic module. Your intermittent issue with the engine at or near running temp points t this module being the issue. It’s probably the original unit in there! If you ever get a sudden shutdown and no start issue, replace the coil for NEW and then replace this module. When this shutdown and no start issue occurs, the coil dies taking out the ignition module with it. I found out the hard way and killed a brand new module before I learned about the dead coil killing the module too... that wasn’t fun. Cheers Bennie