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i am assuming by this comment that it has a current headgasket issue? If yes, making sure that job is done right is job number 1. There is a specific gasket recommended for this job.. part number ends in 770, i think... a search should turn that up.. look for info from user General Disorder... also do the FULL timing job... belt, water pump, all idler pulleys, new oil seals behind the cam & crank pulleys.. and tensioner, if warranted. And do NOT use a Gates kit - their quality has dropped dramatically. Aisin is the best option. A search of this forum will give you lots of information on that job. not a lot of "upgrades" available for these cars in general, but there are few items... King Springs is one that comes to mind that would be ideal for you. not cheap, but well made. There are some smaller lift kits available with a bit of searching.. nothing extreme, but moderate. OEM axles are still the best available - aftermarkets have a much higher failure rate... reboot & regrease of the OEM axles will provide better longevity. I know others will have more info.. so be patient..

I have several used pumps. $20 + shipping. Flat rate Large box.

I'm paying attention because I have to do a couple of these (both 2001) in the coming weeks/months (it'll be my first go at the EZ30s as well, but I've done a bunch of EJ22s and EJ25s to date). Where did this FSM you're quoting come from? Because it doesn't make any sense for steps 5 and 6 to both be tightening the same bolts to the same torque spec. This is sanity-check material and reeks of an error that was corrected in later versions of the manual, not an actual change to the torquing procedure. Yeah, I'll bet the one shown in the video is the corrected version, because the difference between the inner and corner bolt torques is consistent with the EJ25s as well. That'd be my take on it, anyway. (Memo to GD: Yes, I know, we've had that conversation a couple of times.)

Goodness this issue was discussed to death many years ago. What part of “it’s covered under manufacturers warranty, recalls and extended warranty” should they sue over? warranty, recalls, and manufacturers extended warranties, happen for multiple reasons including to mitigate litigation.

Thanks for the conversion there @heartless, I didn’t think to include that. Cheers Bennie

Replace all 7 cooling system hoses. +1 on the OEM axels. +1 on the CTS. +1 What everyone else wrote. More things to be aware of with these- The shaft that drives the main oil pump in the 3AT should be good for close to 200K miles. IF you get close to that, replace that shaft before it fails. If you want one of those shafts, start looking now. I've run Amsoil synthetic ATF in the 3ATs since 1988, and have had very few problems with them. Check that front diff gear lube at least 4 times a year. Running the diff dry causes a lot of problems before the noise gets loud enough to alert you. Mine turn 4000RPM at 65MPH on the highway, not a problem. #1 thing to maintain is the cooling system. Radiator condition, not corroded, not blocked, etc. These engines do not like to run with air in the cooling system. Well, they run, but when the temp goes over normal due to air, the head gaskets get damaged or outright fail. The alternator will wear out a brush around 150K miles, like clockwork. And you can only tell if you happen to be idling in the dark with everything off, and notice the alt and a few other red dash lights dimly glowing. If it develops the click - no crank problem, adding a relay in the starter solenoid circuit is the fix. Start collecting parts, as many are NLA. Others are order and wait.

Ido converted all the important bits for the EA82. Some other points to note: - the coolant temp sensor (CTS) can cause loads of running issues if it goes out of whack, it won’t necessarily throw a code. - O2 sensors can also go offline/out of whack but not throw a code either. Generally an increase in fuel usages is the symptom of this issue. The auto: - most common problem is that governor issue you’ve already mentioned, followed by the seal between the auto and the front diff dying, it leaks ATF into the diff and vice versa, pinion bearing fails followed by pinion trying to drive itself through the centre of the rotating diff housing. Car stops nasty quick when this happens. Auto is a write off at that point. Spare parts for the auto will be harder to find than the manual box. It could be worth pulling the auto down to swap out the seal that’s the issue. Also a good time to reboot those CV joints with a quality item instead of waiting for the original CV boots to destroy themselves. It would be advisable to replace every coolant hose and possibly the radiator at this age. Don’t miss the little coolant hose under the intake manifold on top of the block, it’s a real bastard to get to! This could be a good vehicle to commute in but you might need to do some preventative maintenance before attempting this or run the risk of needing more work and parts shortly after getting it on the road. The EA82 is a. Engine that likes to spin fast, it’s no torque monster by any means and will happily rev at 3500-4000rpm all day with quality oil and coolant doing its thing. Cheers Bennie

Got the control arms and radius rods extended. lengthened the control arms, 1" and the radius rods 3/4" its not pretty, but its strong. Now the CV axles fit and work as they should. 4X4!! Though I did have to ditch the inner wheel seal in the knuckle. its gunna hold till it doesnt!!. and yeah thats a chunk of leaf spring welded to the bottom of the arm.