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I feel there's a better than 50/50 chance extraction tools could be loaned-out by a parts store. Call around local NAPA, PepBoys, Advance Auto, etc. The cost of even good tools for a job like this is still often less than paying a shop for the work, plus, all the one-time-use tools I have, I figure my SILs will inherit, or, they get sold in a garage sale. Folks show-up at garage sales early to snag used tools. They will still have value.

Any air in the cooling system is bad. It doesn't take much to collect in the water pump and stop the circulation of the coolant. This is bad for head gaskets. My experience with older engine models you don't get away with this condition not leading to a headgasket up reseal.

I wholeheartedly second that: When you think in terms of "how much per hour X how many hours will I have to pay someone with the 'expensive tool' to do this?", you will often find that even the highest-quality tools turn out to be really cheap! Of course, the other multiplier in this equation is the skill level required to do the work with that tool, but in the case of turning out a bolt, chances are it's close to or at X1.

What EJ22? What indications that it's overheating? Factory gauge? Aftermarket gauge? Infrared thermometer? Does the heat work when it happens? Use a radiator test kit to pressurize the system and look for your leak. Could easily be introducing air into the system, which is causing your problems.

and it is your trade ins that the rest of us are buying.. LOL Seriously tho... over a 100K used to be a death sentence years ago.. but this has not been the case for a very long time, yet the mindset remains... I bought my first Subaru with 150K on it.. the lowest mileage one ever I think was 114K... the 2002 Forester had 214K when we purchased - the highest mileage purchased.. I have NO problem buying a Subaru with over 100K on it.. barely broken in is my motto After making sure all maintenance is up to date, I get a good car that will most likely get at least another 100K, if not more.

like I said.. check around locally.. they are not that expensive, and while not used a ton, like a standard socket set would be, they can be quite useful to have on hand there are smaller sets available - only 5 pcs in the most common sizes.. but you just never know when you might need one.. especially if you work on things yourself.

if it leaks, and fails to pull coolant back in from the overflow bottle, that could be a recipe for disaster. Until this is solved, be certain to check coolant level in the radiator itself, don't trust the overflow bottle's level. perhaps the thermostat is failing to open completely?

2" lift shouldn't be too hard on your CVs and shouldn't affect power delivery or transmission life. If you're going to drive the car 99% on the highway and occasionally take it on trails like this, just go 1.5". If 99% trail riding I would go 2.5". 215/75/15 is the biggest tire you'll be able to fit without some crazy spacers or wheels, they shouldn't rub too much with 1.5"+ lift. Supposedly the 08ish Forester struts have a little more clearance, pretty sure the 2000-2004 Outback front struts have more clearance, but still 215/75/15 is about as big as you can go. As you mentioned your approach and departure angles will be much worse than a Jeep. At a minimum remove the plastic bumper covers or the trails will eventually remove them for you. AGX struts are a little better than standard replacement struts and aren't too expensive. Beyond that they get expensive but ride and hold up better. Lift springs would be worth looking into, that would be a better way to lift it than spacers as it will get you higher off the bump stops at ride height. Having done it, I would say it's not worth swapping to an H6 for mild trail riding. If you really want an H6 and obviously don't mind having an auto, I'd just buy an H6 Outback. With the five speed auto would be even better. The biggest advantage that Jeep will have over your Subaru is gearing. I haven't seen this trail you're talking about so I don't know how steep it gets, but any long steep grade will probably be impossible in your Subaru (this is all relative, we've certainly climbed some things without low range a lot of people would consider long and steep). I haven't driven many of the automatic cars off pavement but mine is terrible, certainly no better than a five speed manual, you still need momentum to get up short steep hills. It does work better in 1 or 2 than D. I wouldn't worry so much about ground clearance numbers. Worst case you scrape the bottom a few times, or a lot of times, it's steel and it's a 22 year old car, just make sure the oil pan and gas tank have good protection.

Kinda like this, huh? :-) I put some '03-'08 Forester struts and 215/70R16 tires wheels on my '98 Foz. Different Subie, but similar setup. The Foz struts will fit your OB 'as is'. Gave me 9.5" of GC and doesn't mess much w/the CV angles. Tires are tight and just rubbed the mudflaps but 5 mins w/a hacksaw fixed that. Your 27.7" is likely a 215/75R15, for the stock OB alloys, and may a better fit to start. Maybe run that combo and see b4 adding strut spacers, etc. Also, I'm not sure it's applicable to the '99, since it has the Phase 2 Transmission/electronics, but there are two mods I like for the 4EAT: Center Diff Lock and Power Shift Mod. Covered on here somewheres. GL, TD

not sure if it will work or not, but you do need to be concerned about final drive ratios.. they MUST match between tranny and rear end.