Leaderboard

That ended up being the issue; the plug was faulty on a continuity test. So went to two junkyards, in 2003 they changed the plug, fatter mating surfaces. So I found an 11/2001 Outback with a compatible plug and changed it which resolved the CEL code.

Certainly could also be valve stem seals, slipped guides, or PCV issues as well. Since you did the rings they are likely fine. GD

Pistons look pretty black and wet. I would be doing rings. NPR rings are cheap. DO NOT hone it. Just clean the pistons and install new rings. Machinist is correct - once the engine fires up the valves will lap themselves in pretty quickly. We will often drop in new valves and stem seals in cases like this and just do a light hand lap on them, resurface the head, inspect and stake any moving guides and send it. GD

Easiest way todo a H6 “conversion” is buy a H6 model and convert it to manual. Much easier than an engine conversion! Forester rear struts won’t work on the Gen 3 platform, later model units from the SH onwards *might*. Many do a 2 inch strut lift without any issues. As GD said, replace your current springs for a standard height King spring (HD if you want a firmer ride) and you’ll be set. If going for raised springs you’ll have to add in subframe drop blocks as well (also known as a lift) to keep the CV angles happy. This build aims for best approach, departure and ramp over angles on a Subaru. SLO does a “monster lift” kit and others too that have the subframe drop from memory, they also do strut lift blocks if you’re just wanting some easy height over stock. Cheers Bennie

KING raised height springs will raise it about 3/4". A lift kit from ADF, and some stock height KING springs is as much as I would do. And you are going to eat axles. H6 swap isn't in the cards. That's under the heading of "If you have to ask......." Keep it the way it is mechanically. Mild lift, KING springs, and some nice tires. GD

things to be extremely careful with while you keep the brat stored, that top canopy looking thing which is called a "Roof Spoiler" is EXTREMELY rare, i've been looking for one for years now, so that i would say is the rarest piece you have. next thing to becareful not to break are the front corner lights and the tail lights, everything else is somewhat findable with money and a couple of weeks of searching.

Could be that 5 gallon bucket of Subaru nuts and bolts in the front seat. You got away before I could load it. Glad you made it.

Yeah I'm not too worried about restoring it or anything, not anytime soon anyway, but I wanted to know what stuff was rare to come by or at least in good condition so I could be more careful with them. One of the centercaps are on the floor w a 7/16 socket stuck to it lol, I wonder who thought to use an american socket on a Japanese car from the 70s.

@laegion - we were talking about the 5 speed automatic.. not the manual, lol the 5spd automatic is not a good tranny for off road use.. maybe a little trail riding, but not real off road. manual not ideal, either, but that is a different topic that would be comparing apples (autos) and oranges (manuals) to be honest.. both considered fruit, but vastly different

Exactly, and it can handle a lot more power than the 5 speeds they used in the 90's cars. The first gear in the autos may be higher, but the torque converter gives it a huge leg up. I've seen what 5-speeds have to do to get around off road and I can't imagine a clutch would last long. Plus the center diff paired with the auto is far better off road as it can and will actually lock in a 1:1 ratio. The viscous center in the manual transmission cars does not fully lock or ever give 50% front 50% rear. If you're looking to carry more weight and get a mild lift, I'd suggest checking out the lifted King Springs on primitiveracing dot com. They lift about 1-1 1/4 inches. That's what I plan on doing with my OB as they stiffen and lift both.

I understand where you’re coming from if that’s where you land. I’ve heard all that garbage before too. But it’s not true for 4EATs. I have no idea about nonsubarus so maybe this concept is borrowed from other manufacturers and/or eras (my guess - the 1970s and 1980s like other similar archaic shop ideologies) or manufacturers. Multiple things are happening that create this mindset that’s been around for decades. It may be true of other manufacturers or eras (older 70s and 80s trans). That doesn’t mean it’s true for this specific transmission. Also it’s possible new fluid could amplify already existing issues. Got a weak transmission. Change old fluid. New fluid routinely can help a transmission shift better. On a trans with issues it might make the pre-existing issue more pronounced. It didn’t cause the issue - but it seems like it to someone unfamiliar and desperate for it not to need a new trans. cost/desperation. Engine and trans are expensive. People go through the 5 stages of grief like Homer Simpson when these two topics come up. You can see it on the forum here and other forums. People desperate for some other explanation, eager to blame Subaru or a shop or dealer or fluid. Extrapolate that through these other social realities The only people who “change old fluid with tons of miles on it that shouldn’t be changed” are people who don’t change fluid. Lmao. I’m almost not joking. I’ve seen and know how it happens. They don’t change fluid…until something prompts them too. Most of the people I’m around every week never change the trans fluid in their vehicles. “It ain’t broke don’t fix it” even though they change oil every 3,000 miles. So - They don’t change jt until they suspect there’s an issue and they hope it fixes it but it doesn’t and the trans quickly dies. Keep in mind - Some of these people actually forget the original symptoms, forget the trans was initially problemstic before the fluid change. it was slight and they weren’t certain it was the trans but a noise or shake or shift made them think about it. So they had the fluid changed along with many other things over time snd the details got lost in the mix. They hear someone regurgitate the “don’t change old fluid” mantra - and the light bulb goes off “Oh no I did that and the fluid killed my trans”. Revisionist history sometimes accidentally. Ive even done this accidentally forgetting stuff before but not with transmissions. Something reminds me months later that my assumption was wrong in the first place. And I’ve seen it in other people/vehicles, it’s not uncommon. People buy a new to them used car and change the fluid and the trans dies. Well it was on craigslist for cheap because the previous owner had trans issues. Seen that before too. correlation doesn’t mean causation, but that’s not a skill for most people. We are psychologically programmed to hate uncertainty, gravitate to simple explanations and avoid cognitive dissonance like a crazy ex friend Trans shops don’t rebuild ***4EATs*** and if they do, they shouldn’t or you shouldn’t have it done there. 4EATs done at trans shops are likely to need warranty work. Why - I don’t knew I imagine most arent set up for the scope of the tooling and process but in the end I don’t know. GD probably knows why. I’d install a jdm or used 4EAT with tons of miles before getting a random local rebuild (a major source of anecdotes like this). Some shops want to blame something else or make excuses. That’s a surprise to no one and they will also be more vocal about it. anecdotal - no one saying this as an original source has extensive subaru specific experience or knows the 4EAT very well. Or they’re an outlier. If the internals are so dirty that fresh fluid causes catastrophic contamination that trans was one Jack in the box full of garbage and ready to fail quicker than a plastic nuclear reactor before the fluid change. i have no problem changing 200k old fluid in Subarus. None. it’s because I’m the best Subaru mechanic in the Eastern US….oh wait that’s a correlation not a causation…my bad. Lol In any event - there’s a decades long track record of these ideas getting reinforced to perpetuate this throughout the DIY and shop world.

yeah, we also have battery powered hand tools, and the other half picked up a battery powered push (self propelled) mower this summer, when the big rider was having problems.. we had to do something, poor dog was being engulfed by high grass when we let her out to go... =P taller than her, and she is a tallish medium sized dog but a battery powered car, for us, is not practical at all.. we live too far out for it to be, and with a harsh winter climate too (notoriously hard on batteries of all kinds)

the EJ series 4EAT is a very robust transmission... the old EA series were eh.. lol, but yeah, totally different beasts I have owned a 1990 Legacy, a 1995 Legacy and a 2002 Forester with the 4EAT - all great cars with no problems out of the trannies ask GD about the 5spd auto, LOL

I agree with all of that except the auto trans fluid change. I've heard many horror stories about people changing auto trans fluid in cars and trucks that haven't had it changed in tens of thousands of miles and the transmission dies shortly thereafter. Have even heard this from people who rebuild them for a living. Hypothesis being it breaks loose all the varnish and sludge and clogs things up. Just my 2c on that.

Interesting. I was thinking more for the lower/closer ratios than durability but again I know almost nothing about the automatics. The 4EAT is bad enough, I can't imagine something worse.

Brumby loving. Been a while since I’ve had her running well enough to have a drive on the open road let alone loaded and towing! Cheers Bennie

2" lift Make sure the inner axle cups are green (OEM), if not, install used OEM green inner cup axles. Auto transfer clutch modification. It's a one wire job - cut wire, install switch, done. Change your transmission fluid since it's of unknown age and you're going to be working it out. 2" lift is the standard maximum subaru lift. Any more starts flirting with axle angle issues. The oil pan sits low and exposed - careful.

actually, no, the 5spd auto is not better.. they are the weak link here.. the 4EAT would be the better tranny for durability. the only place the 5spd beats the 4 spd is on the hiway - lower rpms at speed, better fuel mileage... but that is the only advantage

You guys have no clue what an awesome resource lmdew is for parts!. The volume of his home dedicated to them is huge. he helped me with a hood latch problem (I swear, I lubed 20 points on the car before I left, the one that failed was the one I missed....) Nice meeting him today, he is a true fan of the brand.