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If that plug is steel, tap a 5/8-11 hex nut on it then weld them together with a MIG, or arc + 7014 rod. Not a lot of weld bead, just enough to make it stick. Let cool then try unscrewing the plug.

I caught up with a mechanic who had previously been given the job to resurrect an L Series GTA , by a car yard. A blown intake gasket tricked them all, and their quick fix chemicals. He hated it. It ended up at a wreckers, slowly being stripped of lights and bonnet, until I came along. When I described it as being nimble - he scoffed. Yet , here I read Fuji's sales blurb for an earlier model, being nimble . Nice find.

those are the ticket. Machinist grade left handed drill bit. Try to keep oil on the cutting tip of the bit. Anything to help disperse heat and lubricate as odd as that sounds for cutting. I grab whatever ATF or power steering fluid on the shelf I’ll never need and use that. I wasn’t thinking though - That plug is huge. Drill bit might not be my first pick. it’s not likely going to work. It’ll just drill a hole. Ideally you want the bit to be just under the diameter of the fastener to maximize heat and torque. I doubt you’ll have a bit that big and end up just drilling a hole. I think this will be more of a - drill 21 different holes until it falls to pieces scenario. impact would be ideal. Cut a V shape into the side of the rounded out hex of the plug. Get a cold chisel and wail on the side of that V in the “loosening” direction. (Make your V so it allows this loosening impact to be as Much in the loosening direction as possible). Pound with a heavy hammer. Ive done this numerous times and the “impact” is extremely helpful to loosen stuff like this. I nearly guarantee it’ll work BUT i don’t know if it’ll damage anything else close to the block in that area. I don’t think there’s anything sticking out or vulnerable to impact or leverage there but I’d rather see what you’re working with first before saying. I would avoid removal tools at all costs. I don’t even own them anymore. I threw them all away. They’re great tools for low grade bicycles or house work, and in a machine shop with controlled perpendicular application of forces, no impact at all. That’s just not practical in difficult motor or rusty car work and they’re prone to break. Anything that comes off with one of those extractors I guarantee it’ll come out with drilling, chiseling or another method. If extractors break - which they often do in at home engine or rusty car work - then you can be in a world of annoyance removing those hardened broken tools.