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I'm new to this computer stuff, haven't been working on my own car for a while, I can still turn a wrench, who to go to with questions is the hard part. I recently started tinkering with a few foresters 2000 thru 2005, I did the timing and head gaskets on all 5. I was amazed at my ability to do this alone, the hardest part was torque while the engine was on the rack, that is the only time I really needed help to hold it still. On my 5th one I had designed locks for the wheels. The 1st job leaked, my torque was off, the other 4 are running fine, and I made a profit. I can't get more cars until I finish #1. Year 2000 ej25 the head bolt stripped out. I'll be searching the threads or archives for advise on those inserts and my other issues. I sure hope the simple little questions that come up and get me stuck will be easily answered, thanks for being here !

He's talking about flushing any debris from your old transmission out of the transmission cooler so it doesn't damage the "new" transmission. And, that if it's a diff failure, the ATF should not be contaminated. But better safe than sorry. Subaru makes a transmission cooler flush product, an aerosol can with a hose to flush anything out of there for the same reason. Any dealer will have it, as they have to use it with every warranty transmission replacement.

Check the ATF for debris and ask them to blow the AT lines out with compressed air (or fluid if they can). Or just blow out the ATF lines and radiators if they can if there's any debris in it. And definitely change the AT filter. I would actually guess it's diff related and not the trans so that's probably not even necessary but since I don't know we have to assume it could be the trans.

They are great cars. I have a 2000 OBS, auto. Manual transmissions are easy if it needs one, but with the low mileage I'd doubt it. Timing Belt and Seals if they have not been done. Change the fluids...basic maintenance and you are on the road. GD is in your city - Great Subaru Shop! http://superiorsoobie.com/

Certainly check crank pulley bolt and flex plate bolts are tight, and try without the serp belt, and make sure the crank pulley isn't rubbing the front cover (I had that happen, the rubber degrades).

Very interesting. I’d get a mechanics stethoscope and narrow down front rear left right fuel injectors etc. and check exhaust shields ive seen H6s with tight exhaust valves but never noise or guide issues.