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A fellow Aussie... Easiest way is to look out for a cheap Liberty that’s manual - one with a blown HG or that’s been hit along the side. Avoid anything where the engine or rear diff have moved as these will always result in potential gearbox damage internally. Having a donor vehicle ensures you have EVERYTHING you need. No multiple trips to the wreckers. Jollys and pick a part are good self serve wreckers in Melbs, so are Imalach’s (formally centre rd wreckers). Buying from a wrecker will probably cost more than your car is worth! Engineering won’t be required as it came from factory as an option for that model vehicle. You will need to ensure your rego at Vicroads says it’s a manual and that you ensure you get your manual licence for your P’s. Cops love P platers! But they’re nothing to stress about if you have a neat vehicle, drive sensibly and if pulled over always be polite no matter how pissed off you might be. This conversion will already be well documented, do some searching. Also join up at Ausubaru if you haven’t already, I’ll keep an eye out for you there too. Again, there will be swaps discussed there too Cheers Bennie

I'm new to this computer stuff, haven't been working on my own car for a while, I can still turn a wrench, who to go to with questions is the hard part. I recently started tinkering with a few foresters 2000 thru 2005, I did the timing and head gaskets on all 5. I was amazed at my ability to do this alone, the hardest part was torque while the engine was on the rack, that is the only time I really needed help to hold it still. On my 5th one I had designed locks for the wheels. The 1st job leaked, my torque was off, the other 4 are running fine, and I made a profit. I can't get more cars until I finish #1. Year 2000 ej25 the head bolt stripped out. I'll be searching the threads or archives for advise on those inserts and my other issues. I sure hope the simple little questions that come up and get me stuck will be easily answered, thanks for being here !

that’s great! Grandfather offered me his truck before he got rid of it. Was 800 miles away in college so I passed. Now I wish I was driving around in his truck. A college friend died in a car wreck. A few years later his dad said. “You know, I’m done with this truck and seeing how you work on cars it seemed like you’d get better use out of it than me just trading it in. I don’t want it to be a trouble but could you use it?” In a few years my son can drive it to school. His name is the last name of that beautiful family who lost their son. I’m a sucker for you rocking your dads car.

I can't comment on engineered stuff, we don't have any of those regulations. We just swap and drive. Usually you'd sell the car and get what you want unless there's a significantly compelling reason to keep this one. To swap you need: The bare minimum you need to get it drivable: Transmission, flywheel, transmission linkage/shifter, clutch cable, pedal assembly, driveshaft, and rear differential (with matching trans final drive ratio of 4.11). And you need to do some minor wiring work to get the reverse lights to work. Then to finish it off you need the center console, instrument cluster, and cruise control computer (if equipped and you want that to work). And maybe the master cylinder/hill holder components if you want them to operate normally. Most people would install a new clutch so you're not doing the trans pull again later - that requires a clutch kit and to resurface the fly wheel. It's a lot of parts and a lot of work. But it's not "hard", it's just a lot. The transmission assembly is big and bulky but otherwise straight forward, the pedal assemblies suck to remove.