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Is anyone with a lot of ea82 experience in the Puget Sound, WA area willing to meet up and discuss Subaru stuff at least once? I need to pick some brains and would love to do it in person. I’m not a licensed surgeon but a good conversationalist. I have a 1990 loyale I’ve done some work on (front bearings, front seals, timing, rear suspension) and want to do much more with. I have a pretty good theoretical understanding of mechanical engineering and car stuff, but I’m an amateur at best. I will be commuting from Oly to Seattle frequently in the coming year so anyone between Portland and Bellingham is within my range. I have lots of really cool rocks I’ve collected over the years, from agates to obsidian, petrified wood, and quartz crystals. Maybe you’re into rocks, too.

Bearings were done in May so all good! I drove it to the dump with yard clippings-looks like they tried the spare hubs and rotors as a used pair was in my parts box in the cab. It is driveable-just passed the safety inspection. I have a vented rotor set and used hubs and calipers from a 1983 Brat if needed in the future.

that’s great! Grandfather offered me his truck before he got rid of it. Was 800 miles away in college so I passed. Now I wish I was driving around in his truck. A college friend died in a car wreck. A few years later his dad said. “You know, I’m done with this truck and seeing how you work on cars it seemed like you’d get better use out of it than me just trading it in. I don’t want it to be a trouble but could you use it?” In a few years my son can drive it to school. His name is the last name of that beautiful family who lost their son. I’m a sucker for you rocking your dads car.

Cheers! Thank you! Dual alternators doubles my amperage output when i parallel them to charge the camper in the event of no sun for days. They are isolated batteries, but share the same ground so my charge light on the dash still works for both. Yes, they are heavy rubber straps. No, they don't move around. I've had this girl on two wheels, near vertical, and almost flipped her over, even in the air off all fours, a handful of times. Nothing moves. I've taken Lucy where others won't take their fancy Heeps, lol. The camper i designed and built myself over four years ago. It looks small and light, but it's over 1,000lbs empty. Ten studs and four trusses, all in 2x3 cedar, steel simpson straps in every corner and joint. Cab frame is bolted to the trailer frame with 30 3/8" bolts, 1" pressure treated flooring, and 5/8 sheet siding. Two layers of 3/4" polyiso insulation back to back all the way around. Two 100-watt panels on the roof, and a 20a controller feeds the two 120AH batteries that runs all my lighting, fans, heat, stereo, tv, laptop, wifi, etc. Available voltage outputs are 120v, 19v, 12v, and 5v. I can run my big power tools, or just charge my phone. I don't have to close the window until outside gets below freezing. Also has propane stove, and propane backup heat. With the 2ft of ground clearance and less than 3 feet of tongue, it follows Lucy through the woods like a shadow. This is my home. I've been living in this rig for four years. I'm semi-retired, and travel where I want, when I want

We ARE helping you. We CANT help you do something that is essentially an impossible waste of time...... I need help too. I need help building an anti-gravity drive. I have some ideas - would you like to see them? Perhaps someday you'll understand how incredibly lucky you were that I gave your post the gift of my responses. Ponder it for a bit. Look up my shop and what we do. GD

Take some advice, man. In the 30 years that these EA82s have existed, you're not the first one to want 30-75% more power out of it. Do you know how many times we've seen people on here spending huge amounts of time and money on EA82ts, trying to do it right? Do you know how many of those got replaced with an EJ? I just spent a minute with a boost pressure calculator. If 5psi nets 115hp, 200hp would require ~22 psi! Yes, everything is fixable. With the proper application of time, money and knowledge, anything is theoretically possible. We're telling you that better results are attainable with far less of all 3 by swapping to an EJ. I don't think anyone has used a Power Commander, but similar builds have been done DOZENS of times, I can't think of anyone that's had much success. There were a couple in Australia ~20 years ago that spent huge money on the engine hard parts to get power out of them, but I don't recall even those being terribly successful. And, how do you think it executes those features? By manipulating sensor signals to fool the ECU into doing something it wasn't supposed to do? Yea...almost certainly.

They blow up in STOCK form. And it's OLD. It will blow up if you so much as look at it cross-eyed. Let alone dump extra boost at it. The engine is JUNK. HOT GARBAGE and needs to be melted down into soda cans. It's not worth even 5 minutes of your time, let alone weeks or more likely months and years that you might spend on all this foolishness. MANY people on this forum came and went DECADES ago and tried all this and a whole lot more. After blowing up dozens of engines EVERY ONE OF THEM threw in the towel. It's a WASTE OF TIME and will still be a WASTE OF TIME regardless of how much you WISH it to be otherwise. No one is going to make you an MLS gasket. Why would they do this? There's ZERO market and therefore ZERO profit in it. People have tried copper - but that's race car stuff and not designed to last. They leak fluids like crazy and copper work hardens making it a short lived racing only kind of gasket. You could o-ring the block and head, but without custom tooling to do so and without gaskets designed with fire rings large enough for this to work it's unlikely to be successful. Generally this results in squirting the fire ring out from under the o-ring due to how thick and squishy the gasket is. Reducing the gasket thickness without a corresponding increase in chamber volume or piston dish will only drive up compression and make it more difficult to run boost without detonation. Removing any material from the heads is foolish - they are already weak. That leaves a piston dish volume increase so custom pistons...... NONE of this work is worth doing and is a fools errand. How are you going to girdle a split block Subaru engine? The block halves are their own girdle you goofball. This statement alone makes it obvious you have never, and will never do any of these things and if you do will certainly fail with misery. GD

As I figured - you have no clue at all what you are doing. The EA82T..... WILL NOT HANDLE MORE POWER. You got that? There is NO WAY to make it "reliable" at 150 HP. You see - to make 150 HP - you need the engine to move more air - an engine is effectively an air pump. So to move more air at the same RPM you will need higher boost pressure and that equates to HIGHER CYLINDER PRESSURE. The EA82T can't handle the required cylinder pressure for that power. And no amount of "technology" and "techniques" (you are really starting to sound like Elan Musk here with the vague references to sh1t that doesn't exist) will change the fundamental poor design of the cylinder head casting, the weak cylinder walls of the open-deck block, and the sh!tty thick composite gasket and head bolt setup. And to even consider increasing the power you will need larger injectors, fuel pump an intercooler system, full exhaust, and a larger turbo that doesn't blow red hot lava at more than 10 psi. Something like a TD04 at the very least. And most probably methanol injection. To control all this you WILL NEED a full stand alone. The Power Commander coupled with a 30 year old stock ECU is a terrible idea - you are going to save a few hundred bucks to use dangerously old electronics that can fail at any time and may potentially wipe out all your invested time and effort (although it's entirely wasted on that engine anyway so I guess.... WTH). As for "economy" tuning - this is highly dangerous territory. Leaning the engine out above stoich will result in HUGE increases in NOx emissions - fuxking the environment even harder than you already are. Not to mention you get into the realm of burning holes in pistons and burning exhaust valves, detonation if you don't come out of lean cruise at just the right moment before you start building load.... again you don't want to attempt hyper-miling with a piggy back. You don't want to attempt it with anything that isn't capable of true wideband closed loop AFR targeting. The EA82T hasn't got a wideband O2 so the stock ECU is only capable of targeting 14.7 AFR and that isn't going to change with a piggy-back controller. The LAST thing you want to mess with on a stock ECU is the closed loop narrow band O2 targeting system. It's extremely complex and manipulating it is likely to result in engine damage. Not to mention - don't do this as it's extremely bad for the environment and why the US government outlawed lean cruise systems. GD

Clearly you have never tuned anything at all and don't understand. I have assisted a customer in adapting a LINK to his EA82T. Which he did successfully. So I know 100% for a fact it will work and can be easily done. He got it running and (of course) promptly blew the HG's on it..... because it's HOT GARBAGE as I have mentioned on about 1000 occasions already. I don't have to have dyno tuned an EA82T to know exactly how to do it. It's a 4 cycle piston engine with port injection and a turbo - just like all the others. You could tune an SR20DET and it would be EXACTLY THE SAME process. The number one rule of tuning (tied for first place with buying injectors for which there is published data) is you GIVE THE ENGINE WHAT IT WANTS. And you will NOT be able to do this with a piggyback and the seat of your pants. You need a full stand alone at a dyno that can test HP, torque, monitor AFR, and you need det cans to listen for detonation.... and you need to MOST LIKELY turn the engine DOWN from where it was stock because it's OLD AS F and wasn't particularly reliable in stock form. Knowing where to STOP when tuning engines like the EA82T or a Mazda rotary is the difference of experience and trust me NO ONE you will be able to talk to here or elsewhere is stupid enough to have spent years tuning the EA82T to approach and exceed it's limitations so they can get a good "feel" for where to stop. Just like a rotary - you detonate it ONCE and you blow the apex seals. You get even a little stupid with the EA82T and you'll crack a head and/or blow out the HG's. The difference is that if you turn up the already sh1tty EA82T you'll just blow holes in it. That's the difference. And I don't need to have "tuned" one to know this. Ask anyone here..... In any case - what *exactly* are you hoping to gain with "finer control"? And what do you actually mean by "finer control"? Do you even know how fine of control the factory ECU has? What do you suppose you could do *better* than the hundreds of engineers that couldn't make this engine a winner working for Subaru being paid to design it? GD

My first hand experience (besides owning an in-ground AWD DynoJet and a Subaru tuning shop where I employ one of the most experienced Subaru tuners in the business - seriously he has the 3rd COBB Pro-Tuner license ever issued back in 2003) is personally building a megasquirt from a bare circuit board and having nothing but problems with that garbage. You want mine? It's collecting dust in a box along with a completely custom crank and cam trigger simulator you can run with a cordless drill for the EJ..... And as far as piggyback controllers - all those do is attempt to "trick" the ECU into giving more fuel or changing timing, etc - which is never a good idea since you are meddling with a closed source system for which you can never be sure of the unintended consequences. And "fine tuning" an EA82T is an exercise in blowing them up. They were unreliable heaps of trash as they came stock (besides being under-powered) and you'll fail at accomplishing anything worth the expenditure on the equipment to do so - just as hundreds of people who have come before you have failed. They are a GIANT waste of effort. But if you insist at least get something you can use on an EJ when your stubbornness gives way to reality and you finally hear my words of wisdom and experience. GD

Ever since I got my first Suby and feared that doughnuts were a thing of the past. Its a matter of practice. I turn the wheel hard to the inside of the turn while hitting the gas hard. The rear will swing out and stay out as long as you keep the gas on. Point the wheels in the dierction of the slide as soon as it breaks loose and steer with the gas. when its time to stop turning ease up on the gas and keep the front wheels pointing in the direction of travel. When the rear starts to catch and center itself hit the gas again to prevent the fishtail or a violent return of traction and you can mahe a smooth transition under full accell.Go play in the snow. Thats where to practice. Get used to having the wheels loose and using the gas to steer in the snow and the transition to dirt is easy. If y'all live in the south take a vacation in the north. Kahoona

my 87 gl wagon is set up to drift, and like someone posted, you have to weld the center diff, and possibly the rear diff... when the ej20 motor was swapped in, the power of the motor kept snapping all the rear diffs, so now the car has a welded rear diff... works reliably, but causes fast tire wear.

Actually on slick or dirt roads, AWD drifts quite naturally The key is to kick the gas in a turn, and let the rear slide out, steer in the direction of the slide, and feather the throttle to manage the drift. Easy, and DAMN fun!!! ScoobySchmitty