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It's bad from my limited experience of one Moog part (one for one bad is 100% bad for me). I put a Moog front lower control arm into my dad's 2005 Outback, and immediately noticed that the camber was way off with the camber bolt in the same position. It couldn't be corrected to even close with the stock camber bolt. The lateral dimension of the part must have been way off. Here's a mechanic's long term experience with Moog parts:

I started to wonder whether instead of a grounding issue perhaps it is a magnetic issue. I was think somehow the gear or the crankshaft has developed a magnetic charge. But I don't the gear on the crank is ferrous metal, I think it is brass. Right now I am completely redoing the B/W + and Yellow - lead wires from the coil to the distributor. I don't think it will fix the problem but the insulation on each had a few worn through spots so it needs to be done anyway.

So I talked to tein today and we did some talking about some custom coilovers for the gl with legacy spindles with gl camber plates and factory rear trailing arms. I'm getting some measurements and sending them some stuff so they can get all the correct measurements and get me a quote to make them. I wanted to pass this along because I've seen a lot of post about coilovers so I wanted to spread the word on what I was planning on doing for my build :-D

Only thing I'd add to that pretty good list are that you can drop the exhaust as one piece to avoid dealing with the cat converter bolts. Sometimes I find it easier to do this, then I can drag the whole exhaust system out from under the car and it's not in the way anymore. Also, there are steel alignment pins that press into the bellhousings between the engine and trans. Sometimes they stay in the engine, sometimes they stay in the trans. Make sure that your new trans and engine will line up in terms of those, ie. don't have no pin on one side or two pins on one side, it's extremely annoying to remedy this issue when the trans is 90% installed. Take some emery paper and clean out the alignment peg holes so it slips together easier. When you unbolt the 4 flexplate to torque converter bolts through the access hole, take a screwdriver and push the torque converter back away from the flexplate. Sometimes they can rust together just a bit, enough to pull the torque converter out of the transmission. This isn't a huge deal since you're installing a different trans, but it'll dump atf all over you.

Get a factory service manual - detailed step by step. Skim it and ask any questions. 2003 transmissions (even H6's) are exactly the same are removing the 4EAT from my 1980's XT6's. There's almost no appreciable difference at all - exhaust, mounts, bellhousing bolts, TC bolts, starter, driveshaft, CV's. Main tricky parts are: 1. rusty exhaust bolts - the exhaust manifolds - make sure you use 6 point sockets and don't strip the nuts. Or be prepared to cut them off with a dremel. Converter flange bolts - they'll shear off or cut them. 2. tilting the engine/transmission so the trans comes out - the bellhousing will want to hit the transmission tunnel of the chassis without sufficient angle pulling off the lower end studs. front of engine needs pushed up so the rear of the trans will rotate down and angle out without the fat bellhousing hitting the trans tunnel. only tricky because there's no set measurements, it's not hard in and of itself. if you've pulled an engine/trans before - then you already know/get this. 1. drain gear oil and ATF from trans and disconnect ATF lines at trans (ATF will want to pour out when you pull the driveshaft out the rear). 2. remove front wheels, inner CV roll pins, top strut mount bolts (mark head location for reinstall/alignment), and loosen the lower strut mount bolt so you can pull on steering knuckle to pull axle off trans stub (no need to remove the axle or axle nut) 3. remove exhaust under trans 4. remove bellhousing bolts, pitch stopper (dogbone), and starter, disconnect transmission electrical connector. (pulling axles first gives easier access to those lower annoying 14mm nuts *Make sure you get all the bolts - look on the donor trans for each bolt location and verify you removed it - it's easy to miss one on these "8 bolt" bellhousings. 5. remove engine mount nuts - 14mm 6. support trans (floor jack, straps, chain through engine bay) - and remove trans mounts 7. disconnect neutral safety switch cable/connector - the shifting mechanism on the passengers side front of the trans and the rear O2 sensor - i think it connects to the rear passengers side of the trans if it's still attached. 8. tilt trans back and pull it out.

When the engine and transmission are mated, there should be a gap between the flex plate and the torque converter. If there isn't, you did it wrong. If they contact before the engine and tranny are mated, you did it wrong. It's about that simple...