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Spare Tire (also fix-a-flat). Water (for vehicle and for people). Always carry at least a gallon of water in addition to what you think you need for drinking. 40 weight oil. Don't bother with coolant - you can use water. Same with brake fluid - if you have to crimp off a hard line to a wheel with a malfunction you can fill the system with water (or urine if things go that sideways) and limp home - you also have the hand brake to assist in limp mode. You can put 40 weight oil in the engine, in the transmission or power steering (temporary - flush it out with ATF when you get home). Engine, transmission, and brakes are all you need. Starter (because automatic - manual cars can be bump or tow started). Alternator Coil pack Front axle Radiator hoses, heater core hose. Spare accessory belts. Especially the alternator/PS belt. If you are really on top of it carry a belt that can run the alt by itself - in case the PS pump grenades. Fuses and basic wiring kit with wire, terminals, crimpers, etc. Basic tool kit. Small 3/8" socket set. 10, 12, 14, 17, 19mm wrenches. pliers (multi-tool). Hammer (or back end of your axe). 32mm socket, 1/2" breaker bar, pry bar, and 3/16" pin punch - this is to change that front axle if required. Bailing wire, duct tape, and aircraft safety wire w/pliers. Inspect and tighten all your chassis components after each outing. Things like ball joints, tie rod ends, and control arms are not generally a failure point on mildly lifted Subaru's - inspect them and replace at signs of wear or damage. Sh1t happens and you'll need to always have a backup plan for recovery (friends with BIG vehicles, AAA membership, etc). There will always be obstacles and circumstances where a 2" lifted Subaru is not going to go and may need assistance. Here's a hilarious video of a jeep being pulled through 18" of snow like a toboggan by an LMTV: If you are going out alone then definitely let several friends and relatives know the general area you are going to, and when to expect your return. Also you should carry the 10 C's of survival (highly recommend Andrew's YouTube channel - subscribe to it): GD

89 should be an EA82 SPFI engine, other option was MPFI turbo, but I'm not sure if they covered that year. At idle, it's normal for oil pressure to read near zero on the dash gauge. I'm in CT, run synthetic 10W-40 year round. I'm not sure what temp range you get, but 5W-30 might be a little thin.

Coolant Temp Sensor.

From what I read, one of the studs doesn't line up with the ez30 gasket.

Hill holder. Or, Ive only seen this on non-Subaru vehicles. But the rubber brake line at the hub/wheel can collapse internally. When letting off the brake the fluid doesn’t return back up the line because the internal collapse is acting like a one way valve. MC and booster give ample pressure to push through it but they’re a one way street so there’s no pressure pushing back up to the MC when brakes are let off. So it retains pressure on the caliper.

Your hill holder valve is sticking. Could be the valve or the cable. For the time being just disconnect the cable and rotate the valve to the open position. You can likely get a replacement valve or possibly the rebuild kit still from Subaru. I bet it's a rusty mess. You're most welcome. We even see this in Oregon where there's no rust so I'm about 101% certain this is your problem. GD

The transmission will lose all it's fluid with the driveshaft removed. You need the front of the driveshaft to seal up the tail shaft housing. Some driveline's - most of the non-turbo one's I believe - you can remove just half of the driveline..... as long as you can keep the center carrier bearing and only pull the rear section you should be ok. GD