Leaderboard

Hi all. I am a 29y old Subaru enthusiast and live in Belgium. I work at Subaru for 5years now, but was virtually born in a Subaru. My dad and granddad had a Subaru workshop for 30yrs where i did grow up in. I own a few Subaru's but together with my dad and grandad we have quite a collection. -1x Impreza P1 -2x Legacy S1(Rallycar build and spare shell) 3x Hatch: - 1300 DL with 1600SRX swap (1985) - 1800 4x4 in need or restoration (1981) - 1800 4x4 rolling shell modified to take a EJ20 DOHC turbo. And amongst the family - 2x XT in great shape 1.8T, and a 8ish in different states - Leone II Sedan, Hardtop, Break and coupe 4x4 - 2x SVX - Minivan - Impreza rallycar 1995 Gr. N lastest addition is a 1400 '74 GSR Here to look for some info on maintaining/retrofitting/upgrading my cars.

Not for the faint hearted, the swiss DTC group did a small overlap crash test with an SVX. On the good note, it seems that for a 90s car it does very good. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dT5PD1stTO0 (DTC does all kinds of weird crash tests at speed with retired cars)

One clue? "replace A/F sensor (OEM from Subaru dealer) last year when the light first came on. Ran okay for a few weeks, then misfire codes came back" So, the o2 DID fix it, if only temporarily???? This probably means something to a Mech/Tech expert. - Fuel injectors...check resistance. I don't know what it should be for your year...those are Top-feeds, correct? No, it's not likely that all 4 are bad. Cause of P0172: Faulty fuel injectors leaking fuel into the combustion chamber Faulty spark plugs Faulty manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP) Faulty throttle position sensor Dirty or clogged air filter Vacuum leak Faulty ECU (or PCM module) Faulty fuel pressure regulator Faulty thermostat (stuck open) Cooling system that’s been retrofitted (ie: thermostat removed, fan running direct, etc.) Restricted or damaged fuel line FWIW: If 'throwing in the towel' means selling for a loss....then how much is it worth to have a Reputable Subaru Shop (not a dealer) check it out? Drop a $200 for a diagnosis>>fix vs. lose $1K or more because the CEL is on? Of course you live in the PNW, so Subaru Central..... peeps probably come up to you on the street with offers...plus the overpriced PandeMarket.

OEM cats are required to last for 100k miles/10 years, but aftermarket cats are only requires to last 35k miles/4 years (not well publicized facts). I tried a couple of aftermarket cats and guess what - they lasted <40k miles! The aftermarket cats are not any sort of good deal - stick with OEM (especially if you're paying a mechanic for installation).

The xt6 came in auto fwd, auto 4wd and manual 4wd.

I have dual port Y-Pipes as well. Hope it all works out.

When you do, only fill the cooling system with distilled water (until you can definitively rule out HG overheating issues) unless you have freezing weather over your way. If that’s the case you’ll have to do a decent flush of the cooling system to clear out the blue. Once that’s done add some green anti freeze coolant of your choice and go for the drive. If you use the distilled water you’ll still need to do a decent cooling system flush to remove all the blue stuff before adding the green you intend to use. HG jobs don’t have to cost thousands. Many on the forum have done their own including myself. Do some research on the procedure as there’s lots of tips for the EJ25D to get it right. It’s not a hard job, it just freaks ppl out because they don’t understand the procedure or what’s required due to their belief they can’t pull down and engine and then put it back together again. If spinning spanners and torquing bolts is beyond your learning abilities then yes, a HG job from a reputable mechanic will cost a few grand. All the best with the radiator swap. I hope for your wallet it doesn’t show up with dead HGs! Cheers Bennie

What a collection. Would love to see photos of your Subarus some time if you decide to post them