Leaderboard

I may have missed it above...but that turbo's drain line is directly under there...and a Pain to see, but I'd shine a flashlight on it and maybe use a mirror ( or you phone) to view it from other angles to see if there's any seepage/leakage in that area, too.

The actuator arm doesn't get lubed, in my experience. That C-clip holds it on. You can pull the arm from the actuator to ensure it's pivoting - toward the back of the car. The discoloration is from heat vs. corrosion- usually. Tangent: That nut on the arm can be loosened to allow the mount to be screwed in/out to extend or contract the 'preload' on the WG. Used by some to adjust it, depending on the issue - Refer to a Tuner's recommendation b4 touching it.

Just pick some more up from the hardware store or online, They're M6 10mm hex head bolts, flanged is better or you can use washers with nonflanged ones. You probably don't want lock washers, these bolts heatcycle the most and like to corrode and fuse in place. It's better to have them loosen than get stuck and rounded off in the car. They just hold the heatshield in place any length is fine, probably 10-20mm is good enough.

With that topic title I was going to suggest to take the car to a drive-inn theatre and watch 'The exorcism' . Tail lights are prone for remaining moist, also check the rubber grommets on the housing.

Cutting down and bending an aluminum door threshold resulted in a pretty good solution for tailgate trim. I ended up inserting the standard (new) plastic bed trim clips for stability, but using the screws that came with threshold and drilling new holes into the tailgate. I'm pretty sure it will take some abuse and I think it looks pretty decent. I might beat on it some more to lower it a bit, but it's good enough for now. The next project is to replace the shift lever bushings. So far the list I have is below, and I'll report back eventually when I have them: 633124170 - Inner / nylon bushing. Need two. 633124180 - Outer / rubber bushing. Need two. 633042040 - Nylon spacer. Need one. 33154GA210 - Rubber cushion. Need one. I really need an inner rubber shifter boot and a 4SPD shifter knob, but I think they are pretty much unobtainable at this point.

Good list. That is exactly what I would do to it. Maybe radiator hoses depending on visual check. A new radiator and hoses isn't a bad idea at some point particularly considering the lower availability of H6 parts.

Back again after a few months Nothing but prime, sand ,prime, sand bog, prime sand. and finally top coat. Bonnet done front guards done boot done and now body done Just doors to do not far to go now

Story time! We had a great guy who joined up and was driving across the country to pick up a car in PA I think it was so I managed to connect with him ( I think he offered initially ) and he brought my 1973 Coupe from an old orchard in WA across the top of the country like this same time of the year it is now , DEAD OF WINTER , salty roads , I-80 and I-90 aka the Rust Route , all the way to me in CT on a trailer. Sequel- that same car sold to Danny W in TN , he kept it a while and then Subafreak also from CT went down to TN and retrieved it. Sadly it went to hell after sitting. But yeah , the stuff we do. And the cool wives we have!!

The EJ25D will be fine in the dirt moving those tyres no worries. The Auto will do all the work, upgrade the external cooler if in a warm climate. On the road at cruise is where you’ll feel the power loss - general acceleration and in the hills/inclines. Going slow over rough stuff won’t be an issue. There were guys on here turning 29 inch tyres in the L series with the piddly little EA82 1.8L carb fed engine! The EJ25D will do just fine. Also, you can’t compare a Jeep’s lift to a Subaru’s lift. They’re completely different and if you follow your mate’s lines on the track you’ll get stuck very quickly. Subarus need to be driven very differently. Pretty much the only advantage to lifting and off-roading a Subaru is the fact that the diffs stay tucked up under the vehicle, effectively keeping them up higher relative to wheel hub/solid axle height. This is where the Jeep almost needs bigger wheels to create more clearance under the diff pumpkin. If you want to get really involved, a 2 inch subframe drop with a 4 inch strut top block will give you an extra 4 inches height. Use some stiffer springs (not necessarily higher springs otherwise you start to enter dangerous suspension setup territory - unless you’re carrying a heavy load ALL the time!). The add the tyre size you want to use, trim the guards/fenders to make them work properly. Go off-roading! Cheers Bennie