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Any 2008+ STI will have the 11mm pump. We use them exclusively on all engine builds. That said - the horse has left the barn so-to-speak. All of the pumps are going to produce about 90 psi on cold start. An EJ engine with good clearances will be about 20 to 25 psi at hot idle. The idiot light comes on at a ridiculously low 4-6 psi. This is a common misconception - oil pumps produce FLOW and the size of the pump dictates VOLUME. PRESSURE is a function of resistance to flow. What you have is a lack of pressure and thus a lack of resistance to flow. In every case I have ever seen this is due to significant wear in the main and rod bearings of the engine. The rod bearings we all know about. The mains get "loose" over time - especially the #2, #3, and #4 mains due to crankshaft deflection and compression of the cast aluminum block. Replacing the pump will not likely do much good for long. You can try. I would also switch to 20w50 on this engine to increase the idle oil pressure. I have seen borderline engines bump up 10-15 psi from thicker oil. Keep it cool and be gentle with it. It may last a few more seasons. GD

From the Outback site: When looking at the pump, at the 11 o'clock position, just below the top left bolt hole, there will be a number cast into the face of the pump. That is your pump "diameter". While this is not Fuji gospel, the trend for oil pumps is as follows: Non-AVLS, Phase 2 SOHC: 7mm AVLS, Phase 2 SOHC: 9mm Non-AVCS, Phase 2 DOHC: 9mm Single AVCS, Phase 2 DOHC: 10mm Dual AVCS, Phase 2 DOHC: 11mm Typically, the more systems that require oil (AVLS, AVCS, Turbo), the "larger" the pump equipped. If you're looking to "upgrade", I would not go larger than a 9mm on a non-AVLS engine. Too much oil IS a bad thing.

While i do greatly appreciate your expertise, I am kind of reluctant to accept bearing wear at this time... altho I am also aware that anything is possible. the light thing is pretty recent and kind of sudden - as in just the last month or so (have had the car since Sept).. it also started just after an extreme cold snap...the light is out while driving at speed (over 2000rpm) but at lower speeds (rpms) is when it flickers, and on full at low idle. I dont go out a lot, but do have to drive some distance when i do go out (30-ish miles one way) so it does definitely get fully warmed up on an outing. there is no rattling, knocking, or other indication that there are any major problems - even on a cold start... doesn't even have the gnarly sounding piston slap that the 02 was plagued with, lol I am more inclined to think that the backing screws on the pump may have loosened up.. (hoping?) It is also due for an oil change, so yeah, I can easily bump up the oil grade - currently has 5w30 in it (recommended grade). 20w50 is probably a bit much for this area this time of year, however.. we can still get pretty extreme cold temps right thru March 10w30 or 10w40 would probably be more appropriate, i feel.. history on the car is pretty much unknown, but going by general overall condition, mileage is pretty consistent with the general condition. i suppose it is possible that the engine had been swapped, but i really dont see anything that would lead me to believe that had happened.. there is a note written in marker on the front cross-member about the timing having been done at 137K in 2013 - and yes, I am aware we are at the limit time wise which is why it is high on the list.

Powerhouse or not, I love it to be sure. It's been 15 years of me waiting to get a Brat, and maybe I'm just excited to plow through the gears and hit the trails. Thanks for the words of encouragement and realism all.

Just get a second engine, put a Weber on it, and swap them when you need to smog it. Only takes a few hours. GD