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Cheers that’s awesome ! Given how bad it was it sounds like that may have done the trick! I’ve done it, thats a horrendous job. Squeeze a 17 ft continuous bead of sealant that can’t be compromised when sliding that awkwardly huge cover in a tight space to line up the 60 bolts that hold the cover on. Good price for the headache.

picked up the vehicle today and so far I don't see any leaking and it was pouring out before- I don't know if other issues will flair up, we will see but the vehicle seems to be running fine besides the leak. So smooth that sometimes at idle I think the car is not running. all I can do is keep my fingers crossed and the $375 price tag I can live with.

Sounds very much like the issue we were having with our 04 Outback VDC last summer. Slow temperature creep under load. A very thorough cooling flush solved it. 2 chemical flush treatments with a drain/fill. And back flushed the engine, radiator and heater core independently with water. While the radiator was out, I used cleaner and hose to rinse any dirt and debris out of the outside of the radiator and condenser cores. The hot lower hose is a good sign, as it means you have circulation. But it's just not getting rid of the heat.

Driving through 8 inches of snow and it feels fine- no oil leak that I can see. Yeah, I think they did a good job on it and hopefully it will not leak oil from else where at least for a while. I think I will tackle a transmission fluid and filter change once the snow goes away, that will be the next thing!!

On the Outbacks , MY 2000 and 2001 have the PCV valve threaded into the intake manifold, with hoses connecting to the block, air box (sometimes) and the valve. The hose connection at the valve is approx 3/4 inch?.Starting with MY 2002 the PCV valve is threaded into the fitting located on the block and a single hose connects to the intake manifold, the hose is smaller, maybe 3/8 inch?. The valves are not the same. There was a mid year change and I have seen a couple of 01's with the later style. When doing engine swaps if you have a newer intake manifold and an older block or the opposite, the plumbing and or hoses or even the location of the valve may have been modified to make it work. In the attached picture shows the attach point on the block the non threaded is the older style, the threaded is the newer style

Update. I recovered my Subaru wagon today. Seattle Police found it in a parking lot of a low rent housing development and notified me. Keep in mind that if your vehicle is stolen, opt for the 'do not tow / impound option. Otherwise you will be nailed for tow and storage fees. Always get to the vehicle and then decide what to do. The catalytic converter was not stolen (rare these days ). I drove it home. I must have Subaru zen. The roof top tent was stolen which is not uncommon. The mounting framework attached to the vehicle was left behind. Most mounting systems do not have anti theft hardware. The 'tamper resistant' nuts that I have seen don't work. A cordless grinder will get through the mounts. A guy would have to build a system to remove the RTT after each use. They can be heavy and awkward. Previously, I drove around homeless camps all over Seattle and Kent. Garbage dumps. Face book has a section called PNW Stolen Cars. Check it out and you might be shocked. Ignition cut outs seem to be the way to go for many people. If they want your vehicle and can't drive it, they will tow it. They are pros and probably armed and dangerous. Interrupting an organized theft is risky. Be safe out there.

I had a leak, in a coolant bypass hose. I used dry ice in the radiator to pressurize the cooling system, and the leak became much easier to find. Video. https://youtube.com/shorts/gN2hKFJvt3M?feature=share

Hello USMB! Our beloved EA81 chassis is now well over 30-years-old and the parts supply is rapidly disappearing. Rubber parts, specifically, are mostly gone. In fact, RockAuto only lists the front windshield gasket and, as of this post, there is a single gasket left to order. My proposal is that we, as a community, band together like we did for the Gen-1 windshield gasket group buy, and have a run of parts made for the EA81 chassis. Right now, I'm thinking of four parts: BRAT/wagon/sedan/hatch front windshield gasket Wagon rear windshield gasket Coupe front/rear windshield gasket The first part is common across the listed body styles, so that makes perfect sense to me. I feel like the EA81 wagon is the most common body style still on the road, so it would make sense to target that application as well. I'm not an expert and have done exactly zero research on that, but it's my gut feeling. Finally the coupe has unique front and rear windshield gaskets, so it would need its own specific parts. Based on the previous group buy, I would estimate the cost per gasket to be between $50-80. These would be BRAND NEW rubber parts, not some 30-year-old NOS that has been sitting on a dusty shelf for the last three decades. So, who is interested? The minimum order will likely be around 50-units, so I'd hope we can get close to that number of members committed to buying. If you have any questions, comments or general input, please reply below and I will update this post with the usernames of interested parties.