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A friend had a like problem. I recommended a transmission shop check and they found a bad speed sensor. He went to the yard and pulled it, put it in. Problem fixed.

~450km round trip today to see my brother (good catch up that was long overdue!). I drove home with the roof glass out, got a bit cool climbing the hills through Wombat State forest area. This pick was near an old volcano called Mt Franklin with several storm clouds off in the distance - where I was headed for home. I missed all the rain which was good. Longest run with the “tops off” for me so far - about 220km through several climate changes. Last big trip to Melbs and back I managed to get 8.5L/100km - anything at 10L/100km is awesome in my book for a vehicle of this age. This trip might be different as there were more hills and more stop/start intersections. Great day crusing! I enjoyed it! Cheers Bennie

Why not go to parts.subaru.com and find the parts that are specific to your vehicle, then look at what other vehicles share that part #? There is always a link to vehicles with the same part number right on the part page.

I have a few good fans. $20 shipped.

You'll need to pull the glovebox out to get access to the blower motor. Disconnect the wires and test for power on all the settings as they mentioned above. If there's power then pull the motor and replace it. They aren't outrageously expensive and it's reasonably easy to do with basic tools.

On the Outbacks , MY 2000 and 2001 have the PCV valve threaded into the intake manifold, with hoses connecting to the block, air box (sometimes) and the valve. The hose connection at the valve is approx 3/4 inch?.Starting with MY 2002 the PCV valve is threaded into the fitting located on the block and a single hose connects to the intake manifold, the hose is smaller, maybe 3/8 inch?. The valves are not the same. There was a mid year change and I have seen a couple of 01's with the later style. When doing engine swaps if you have a newer intake manifold and an older block or the opposite, the plumbing and or hoses or even the location of the valve may have been modified to make it work. In the attached picture shows the attach point on the block the non threaded is the older style, the threaded is the newer style

Sounds like you have a short somewhere providing complete circuit for power. Has any work been accomplished lately? Any previous damage to the car? Main relays are up under the drivers side dash. They are way up there under the kick panel. Next time it happens I'd try pulling the relays. Do you have an aftermarket security or remote start system installed?

Can do. Turn the key in the ignition to "on", the spot just before starting the engine. Buckle and unbuckle the seatbelt 20 times within 30 seconds. Immediately take the key out of the ignition. Enjoy your chime-less Subaru Edit: you only have to do this once and the chime is off for good. Unless your battery dies. Also, you can toggle the chime on/off by following the same instructions.