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The pin that holds the axle on the transmission is a straight roll pin. 2 things get people in trouble - using a drift that is too small, and it gets into the hollow center of the roll pin, and jams. The other is not noticing the splines when reassembling. One hole has a peak, the othe side has a valley. It's almost but not quite 180 degrees off if you get it backwards. Try to drive the pin inot the offset holes makes for a bad time. The bug nut should not be as tight as you describe.... yes 3/4" breaker bar. For.the first time removal, sometimes need a 2.to.3 foot extender on the handle... reassemble with anti seize. The 140 /150.ftlb is dry tourque, so go little lighter with anti seize. I also use anti seize on the ball joint mating surfaces. Makes any future work way easier.

How are the brake line? The flexible parts at the strut. Cracks inside there can prevent the backflow of brake-fluid. Or the slide pin are not moving freely.

Here's a possibility: 7 years ago, the timing belt jumped a few teeth, and the car wouldn't run properly, so it was taken off the road and parked. Now 7 years later, the timing is still off, and the fuel is degraded, so it still won't run.

I keep shouting this and no one is listening. And people wonder why the guy on the front lines working on this shite doesn't personally own or recommend anything made after 2004? My parts guy at the dealer just sold his 2014 - went back to a pre-2005. GD

You nailed it. It's a Breakin' 2 reference. I couldn't figure out a name and it was late and i liked the rhyme scheme.

Listen to these guys. They know their stuff. I had one without issues but was extremely lucky apparently. First order of operations is to make sure your cooling system is ok. Then I'd have the fuel injectors cleaned and brought back to life. What I noticed was m #1 and #3 fuel injectors were worse than my #2 and #4. I noticed that those two injectors were close to the turbo itself. And lastly, an intercooler. I had all three of these done and the car ran reliably. Can't say you will be so lucky though. Good luck!

Get an FSM. The XT FSM is the same as an EA82 in terms of axles and was widely available free online. Try to find it but if not I can get it to you. PM me. It’s straight forward and not many fasteners or parts. The tricky parts are: Rust - if it’s rusty, ball joints are nightmarish and axle shaft sticks in knuckle. The boot replacement is a greasy mess. Have lots of shop towels. Other than that it’s really easy. Also make sure you line the splines up the right way - they only have one orientation, not two. There’s a through hole on the axle and stub that need to line up and at first they appear to just like ho either way. But they can be 180 Degrees off. Easy but if you don’t know to look it confused people. I’ve pulled one on the side of the road an hour from home. 1-2 hours without tools in a snow storm at dark. Knocked out pin with whatever I could find. then beat the snot out of the outer joint to pull the shaft and leave the outer joint in the bearings so I could drive home in 2WD without that axle installed. It was a brand new, about 100 miles, aftermarket axle that had failed. I forget which side failed, but that aided removal.

36mm socket and a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar. Torque? Just jump on the breaker bar two or three times, then more to line up a split pin hole. To remove the shaft you need to drop the ball joint out the bottom of the knuckle/hub assembly, then you can pull the shaft off the diff stub axle and push/hammer the shaft out through the bearings. I’ve done it while out 4wdn in the bush to replace a busted CV boot. Cheers Bennie