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Update time! I pulled the trigger and made the 4500 mile round trip to get the parts car. I live in Madison, Wisconsin, and the car was just north of Seattle. It is also a '71, but has a 1300 engine (1300G?). It has the window, it has a good subframe, and tons and tons of other small parts I'll surely need. I also picked up an EA71, an EA63, and an EA61 short block. I'm back in business! Picture time: The car is safe at my storage lot, it snowed a bunch while I was gone so I need to get everything re-organized over there. More progress to come!

I just ordered a new high pressure and low pressure line. I also got a new condenser since mine is pretty chewed up after a rough 135k miles. I also got an O-ring set since the system will be apart. I'll post back once it is all installed and it warms up a little.

I believe the VIN should be stamped on the side of the case (or, many places on the car). Bring that to your dealership, or online parts source (I like www.partsouq.com) and look them up. Once you get it put back together, change the gear oil in there occasionally. That s*** looks nasty! Over 200k on my mom's 2012 Impreza. Original engine and transmission. We'll probably do it's 4th CVT and Gear Oil change here pretty soon. It does rev up higher than I'd like, but it's a 2.0, it has no torque.

1. headgaskets 2. intake manifold gaskets leaking internally into the combustion chamber 3. another leak you haven't found yet Carefully look for an external leak. Pressurize the cooling system to check for leaks. When it's running hot look for bubbles in the overflow tank.

Hey buddy! I can't answer your question but it's good to see you again and hear the XT6 getting some tune up. I run stock, I'm too gutless to play with timing, it sounds mystical to me! I changed my username, but this is Gary.

1. *** Critical question - how positive are you the noise ever existed before the wheel bearing job and started immediately after the wheel bearing job? 2. Does it only start grinding with your foot on the brake? 3. If it starts grinding and you immediately respond with more brake pressure, or let off, does the noise go away? Front or rear bearing? Describe the symptoms and how long was it bad? Was a Subaru or aftermarket bearing installed? Did it fix the issues or was this "brake noise" the issue that the wheel bearing replacement didn't alleviate? If you replaced the fronts, maybe it's the back making noise? Or the other way around. Jack up the vehicle and turn the hub (with the wheel on and without the wheel on) by hand and reproduce the noise to help locate. Look for debris stuck in, or around the backing plate, or a bent backing plate that's rubbing the rotor. Open the caliper and check for a distorted wear indicator or bent brake pad clip touching the rotor. This would be very uncommon but as I can't see the car you want to make sure nothing is inordiately close to the rotor - pad clips, rear backing plate, and wear indicators are easily damaged/shifted. Aftermarket wheel bearings are lower quality and can fail shortly after install - is there any chance this new bearing is bad or was damaged during installation?

The nuts get rusted on, same with the washer and cone. Once you have them off once, clean and grease it all. Especially the spines! You should only be torquing to ~150 lbf-ft/200 nm, so a good 1/2 breaker bar will bust them off the second time. Also re-check the torque after a few miles, if they keep getting loose, it's likely the splines are dirty. I always remove them and re torque with torque wrench when I get home after a field repair.

1,000 ft-lb 3/4" impact gun. Or a 3 foot pipe over the handle of a 3/4" socket wrench. Axle nuts routinely break generic/average 1/2" breakers/sockets all the time. Ball joints vary wiidly based on corrosion and time in situ. Yes a crow bar "is enough" if yours isn't bad. Have the ball joints ever been apart before in the past? If not they've sat there for decades. People here do it on the side of the road because they've probably done a bunch and often times have already had that axle/knuckle apart in the last couple of years so removal is easy before age/corrosion set in. A first timer with even minor corrosion/rust issues has zero chance of getting this done without a headache so you're right to ask. just look inside the axle hole and the stubby shaft hole. on one side of the axle *the VALLEY of the splined shaft will be in the center*, on the other side the TOP RIDGE will be in the center. Line it up appropriately. It's not hard, just need to know to look for it.

The pin that holds the axle on the transmission is a straight roll pin. 2 things get people in trouble - using a drift that is too small, and it gets into the hollow center of the roll pin, and jams. The other is not noticing the splines when reassembling. One hole has a peak, the othe side has a valley. It's almost but not quite 180 degrees off if you get it backwards. Try to drive the pin inot the offset holes makes for a bad time. The bug nut should not be as tight as you describe.... yes 3/4" breaker bar. For.the first time removal, sometimes need a 2.to.3 foot extender on the handle... reassemble with anti seize. The 140 /150.ftlb is dry tourque, so go little lighter with anti seize. I also use anti seize on the ball joint mating surfaces. Makes any future work way easier.