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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/02/22 in all areas

  1. Pulling the cluster than about 15 minutes when you get the hang of it. Takes me longer to stand up straight after climbing under the dash! I just had to replace the relays. Second time doing it, so I just pulled the pins out of the connectors and stuck them in a normal Bosch relay. Hopefully will never have to do that again!
    2 points
  2. @SLG this is like the 5th new thread/topic you have posted on this issue... please stop hitting the "post new topic" button, and use the "reply to this topic" button instead. It will be much easier for everyone, including you, if everything is kept in one thread.. alternatively, at the bottom, there is a box you can type in to reply directly (in the box it will say "reply to this topic") as for the car... you need to take it to a good mechanic.. preferably one that knows Subarus... and have a thorough inspection done on it.. Any good mechanic can tell you if your tie-rod ends or ball joints are bad, or if its something else - or if it is a combination of things. When you take it in.. do not lead them by saying you think this or that is the problem.. just say it is making noises, you are not sure where it is coming from, and you want it checked over carefully. my money is on bad struts since it happens immediately after going over a bump.
    2 points
  3. I'm about to find out. At 66, I'm not so limber anymore but my wallet is small so here goes!
    2 points
  4. Find a good Subaru Mechanic! You have already changed parts that were not needed. Non-Subaru halfshafts are known to cause vibration problems.
    1 point
  5. Yes, I agree. The recording quality is too low to be able to be sure what it is. I have a sound systems hooked up to my computers.
    1 point
  6. Had a chance to play with the parts car today, I haven't had much of chance to look it over since I got back. The weather hasn't been cooperative either. The hood latch was stuck (the release cable is broken, I think). I was able to remove the front valance and reach up behind the grill to unlatch the hood. The hood prop is in the center of the hood on these cars, and it looks like this prop was jammed and someone really wanted to get inside. That support running across the hood is bent to hell, and the prop is ripped in half. The valance will do for now. The engine doesn't look great, but it's nearly all there. This car is a 1300g, so this engine is an EA62. First things first, I wanted to see how seized it was. I put a 22 on the crank, and to my surprise, it turns! In fact, it seems to have compression! I had a quick peak at the engine in Seattle, but the hood got closed and I figured it was safer stuck closed for the 2000 mile trip anyway. I'm thrilled, this is an excellent alternative if my EA61 ends up having issues. Don't worry, I've come too far on the EA61 to give up on it, I just feel good knowing I have options.
    1 point
  7. That was a good workout, good thing I always carry a scoop shovel in winter.
    1 point
  8. Update getting closer to finishing The rear pollycarb window in in and looking good. We have painted all bolts and the 2 alloy uprights black The rear bumper is almost finished We used a bit of frame off a small truck deck with a bit of steel of the farm. lots of cardboard and taps. We are going to put alloy treadplate painted black on the top of the bumper. did a small mock up and it looked sweet The front window is in. new rubber as well. surprised the window come up so good. still has a few melted spots from welding ha ha ha A sneak peak of final look with wheel on. finishing rear camera mirror setup. Have new covers for rear lights. Getting log book done. Got out a clear container and a old biscuit tin and did a mock up of how the sump buffer is going to go to keep oil in the bottom. Playing around with that, what a difference it made with just a few small lips. Will post picture when we tackle that (soon )
    1 point
  9. Welcome. For future reference, usually better to start your own thread vs. 'hijack' an exisiting one, that is 6 years old. Although I can see where this thread's title 'Part Interchange' may seem similiar, it sounds like you want to upgrade yours? If you're coming from another platform - Jeep, Toyota, etc - explain what you're trying to do? If not, What's your End Game (Goal)? Some want to Lift it up, others want to 'slam' it down, etc.
    1 point
  10. there's no interchange really - it depends on parts and what you're trying to do - there's too many variables. "be able to use these parts" - depends what you mean... body parts - forester and impreza's and SVX's are out. 1995-1999 outbacks same body, legacy wagons similar, front of legacy sedans the same. engine, trans, brakes, interior, suspension (and how much of the suspension)..all have different answers. the engine is directly interchangeable with any 1996-1998 EJ25 vehicle and 1999 Outacks and Legacys with EJ25, as well as 1995 automatic EJ22's, and 1995 manuals EJ22's with a minor work around with vacuum lines. that engine and the exhaust manifold is plug and play compatible with 1996-1998 EJ22 vehicles, impreza or legacy. suspension and brakes generally interchange all day long on subarus but there are some notes depending on years/models/goals. wanting to swap "A" often means also swapping "A" and "B"....
    1 point
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