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got the car back from the shop a coupla weeks ago. All the way home it was smoking, kinda tailed-off in the last coupla miles, since then when i drive, seems like the smoking is gone so, I guess it was VC gaskets. wherever they leak into must collect a lot of oil. The shop got a lot of things taken care of for me and I don't regret taking it in. They put in an ACT HD clutch and I'm still getting used to that. They too k the bumper off and only had to fix some leaking hose to get the ww spraying again. I still have 1-2 mechanical/physical things to work on (and some cosmetic stuff) and I can see some time coming up in a few weeks to do it too. That shop was crowded. When I went to pick the car up, they had to move a 700 hp beast out of the way!

Failed and/or aftermarket timing belt tensioner 1. Install all new Subaru timing belt, tensioner, and lower cogged idler. Or just get an entire AISIN timing kit (OEM parts). Or, if you're unlucky and the valves were bent: 2. Install used heads if the valves are bent. No need for a valve job, just resurface the heads and install with Subaru gaskets. If the engine does happen to be toast - I wouldn't get that turbo for a variety of reasons. The install would be insanely complicated, best facillated with an aftermarket controller due to the cross generational aspect...and the unknown history and risk of a 15 year old turbo engine leaves a lot to be desired.

Newbie here we owned 2019 Subaru Forester. This is my first Subaru and first Japanese car by the way.

Muffler shop, to cut and weld in a section. If you want to keep the joint, see my post above.

Oil Pressure: 98 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2, 14 psi) or more at 800 rpm 294 kPa (3.0 kgf/cm2, 43 psi) or more at 5,000 rpm

^^^^ what Larry said, plus, weak tenisoners can sometimes knock. drain the oil and drag a magnet around in it too.

i dont put on the kind of miles that ido does, but in over 20 yrs of Subaru ownership, yeah.. a lot of the aftermarket stuff is junk - especially axles and alternators. i had a forester strut lifted 95 Legacy, and absolutely loved it! ran stock axles and had no problems. make sure the boots dont crack, and if they do, replace them asap - clean and regrease at the same time.. stock axles will go for a very long time. I used new KYB struts & tophats, and OE springs.. awesome combo for most drivers. for alternator - best option, if you cant find an affordable new OE - is to get a used one and find a shop that specializes in rebuilding alternators & starters.. have that shop rebuild the OE alt. it will be far superior to any aftermarket replacement unit. had the alt on my 95 go out.. put in a cheap aftermarket as a temp solution and had the OE rebuilt locally - cost me $140 - a bit more than an aftermarket unit, but worth every penny.. when i got it back it went back in the car, and the aftermarket one went back in its box and up on a shelf.. it sits there to this day. in a previous car i had an aftermarket alt crap out after only 8 months, got a replacement under warranty, and that one lasted just less than a year. the one I had rebuilt locally was still going strong over 3 yrs later when i sold the car - probably outlived the car. almost wish i had thrown that cheap aftermarket one in before selling.. oh well For a Subaru, OEM suppliers are the best option for most parts. even used is still usually better than any aftermarket will be. When those are not a viable option, knowing what is a good alternative will save you money in the long run.

I'd at least pull the timing belt covers off. I picked up a 2001 that sounded like a rod knock. It turned out to be the timing belt cogged Idler bearings were gone! I'm still driving that $400 car.

Yes there is a exhaust donut gasket. GD posted a repair for the pipe flanges a few weeks ago. Not sure what the brand was. You can search the USMB. Here's a quick google search.

Yes, @Suber Dave is still selling the axle parts. If you don't hear from him I can shoot him a text.

12 year old thread......