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'96 2.5 = DOHC. Kit should be the same for the '96-'99 EJ25D. Yeah...stick with Aisin-based kits. And the Stant or OEM T-stat. Might want to add the oil pump, since you're 'right there' when you do the crankshaft seal. There's an o-ring for the oil pump-where it mates to the block- to replace and you'll want to tighten the large Philips head screws on block-side of the pump, too. Also, loosen the 2 motor mounts (14mm) to lift the engine a bit for access. Makes it easier to replace those NGK (only) platinum spark plugs (every 60K), too. Lastly, if you have any oil leaks from the back. the rear Separator Plate is likely the cause as Subaru switched to a plastic cover (switched back to metal in '00?) that's not so great. The replacement kit includes a metal cover and screws/bolts. But this requires pulling the engine (@ least I do) and is a much bigger job than the T-belt.

changing coolant would be a good idea, yes - and check the hoses while you are at it. it is not 100% necessary to drain/change it, timing can be done without draining... just pull the fans for better access, but if you are doing the job, do it all and be good to go for many miles. Aisin is the OE water pump supplier, and they do offer timing kits, but you need to know which motor you have. The absolute MOST important part to change, besides the belt, is the cogged idler pulley, which tends to be the one that fails first out of all of them. Cam & crank oil seals are definitely a good idea.. Tensioner, unless it is leaking oil, is not a really a necessity, but good practice if you are unsure. the plate on the left (drivers side) strut tower will tell you which engine you have, as well as trim & color codes, and tranny info that is an example of the plate you are looking for.. that particular one is for an EJ253 - it is the first 5 characters of the "Engine type" that you are interested in. (unless your car has had an engine swap, in which case, this info is pointless) there are multiple configurations of the 2.5, so having that 5th character - letter or number - is pretty important in making sure you get the correct parts for your engine. Thermostat is typically not a necessary change item, unless you are having temp issues - if you do decide to change it, get an OEM one only - aftermarket are junk. (search the forum here for more details) This is also a good time to replace the accessory belts, since you will have them off anyway to do the timing, fresh oil change & filter is a good idea as well. you can find a service manual here to help you along with the job: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/

Interesting. So two layers with the bottom one perforated? I suppose room temperature water probably has about the same viscosity as hot engine oil. I'd be a bit worried about having adequate drainage to the bottom, I'd try it with baffles that are angled downward more steeply and/or don't stick in as far from the walls. I'd be surprised if a significant amount of oil goes through the perforations. Some quick googling indicates the oil pump can flow about 10gpm (40 liters per minute) at high RPM, similar to a garden hose. You want to make sure that can all get to the bottom of the pan. Have you thought about making or buying a crank scraper/windage tray? Definitely let us know how the test run goes!

Hey all, car didn't sell at auction but made a deal after the fact and it was sold for what I was looking to get. The kicker is the car is on it's way back to its home, Japan. One less coupe in the states now. I delivered the car to the buyer in Sacramento CA (6 hour drive) and he drove it the rest of the way to Los Angeles. Definitely no trailer queen here, and with the original 1400 wet sleeve engine no less. Going to miss her but it's on to the next project.