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Manuals have clutches that wear out - and their computer interface of a chimp rowing a stick about mindlessly is less than ideal in most cases. Auto's are smarter at traction control and the torque converter acts as a built in low range. If built properly the automatic will win in every category, every time even against an experienced manual transmission operator. That's just the facts people. And you all know I'm not biased due to lack of any kind of driving skill with either system. The failings are now entirely within the implementation - wiring, computers, planned obsolescence, products rushed to market with insufficient testing, etc, etc. Consumer automotive products made in the last 20 years are largely dead to me. Just plain garbage. GD

I wonder if the issue lies with your IACV. My sister’s EJ251 has an issue with the IACV where it will stall sometimes when coming up to a stop or when changing down gears into a slow intersection turn. From time to time the check engine light comes on and the code is always for the IACV. Sounds like your issue could be along the same lines, particularly if your IACV is the plunger style unit with the rubber dome shaped seal on the end. Seems that these seals wear or crack at the contact point and leak air, resulting in the idle issues and resulting check engine light. Cheers Bennie

'96 2.5 = DOHC. Kit should be the same for the '96-'99 EJ25D. Yeah...stick with Aisin-based kits. And the Stant or OEM T-stat. Might want to add the oil pump, since you're 'right there' when you do the crankshaft seal. There's an o-ring for the oil pump-where it mates to the block- to replace and you'll want to tighten the large Philips head screws on block-side of the pump, too. Also, loosen the 2 motor mounts (14mm) to lift the engine a bit for access. Makes it easier to replace those NGK (only) platinum spark plugs (every 60K), too. Lastly, if you have any oil leaks from the back. the rear Separator Plate is likely the cause as Subaru switched to a plastic cover (switched back to metal in '00?) that's not so great. The replacement kit includes a metal cover and screws/bolts. But this requires pulling the engine (@ least I do) and is a much bigger job than the T-belt.

changing coolant would be a good idea, yes - and check the hoses while you are at it. it is not 100% necessary to drain/change it, timing can be done without draining... just pull the fans for better access, but if you are doing the job, do it all and be good to go for many miles. Aisin is the OE water pump supplier, and they do offer timing kits, but you need to know which motor you have. The absolute MOST important part to change, besides the belt, is the cogged idler pulley, which tends to be the one that fails first out of all of them. Cam & crank oil seals are definitely a good idea.. Tensioner, unless it is leaking oil, is not a really a necessity, but good practice if you are unsure. the plate on the left (drivers side) strut tower will tell you which engine you have, as well as trim & color codes, and tranny info that is an example of the plate you are looking for.. that particular one is for an EJ253 - it is the first 5 characters of the "Engine type" that you are interested in. (unless your car has had an engine swap, in which case, this info is pointless) there are multiple configurations of the 2.5, so having that 5th character - letter or number - is pretty important in making sure you get the correct parts for your engine. Thermostat is typically not a necessary change item, unless you are having temp issues - if you do decide to change it, get an OEM one only - aftermarket are junk. (search the forum here for more details) This is also a good time to replace the accessory belts, since you will have them off anyway to do the timing, fresh oil change & filter is a good idea as well. you can find a service manual here to help you along with the job: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/