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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/20/22 in all areas

  1. After two Legs, a 92 and a 95, i moved on to a Forester 4 years ago, bought also one for my GF... But every now and then i check to see if a nice old Leg is around and gosh, shouldnt have open the site! this came up for sale, one owner, 80K miles.... on top,it's exactly same color as my first Leg, 18 years ago.... even the price is good.... I know it's dorky but how to resist?
    1 point
  2. I've bought one, and plan to buy a couple more. I just bought on eBay, paid with a Credit Card through PayPal. This gives me 3 separate avenues for accountability/charge dispute. Read the sellers feedback history, make sure they have a decent history, and have been selling engines for some time (I noticed at least one seller that had a decent rating, but almost exclusively on small parts...). Best practice is to swap the intake manifold and all wiring over from the old engine. The link that @idosubaruposted is for a bare, new shortblock. This will have a 1 year warranty. Call your local dealership and ask about remanufactured shorblocks. These are about the same price, but come with oil pan, pump, water pump, thermostat, etc, and come with a 3 year 36k mile warranty.
    1 point
  3. Ordered a used throttle body assembly from the UK with TPS and IACV attached so I will try to use those when they get here but I tested both the TPS and IACV yesterday and both test good. Removed the IACV and put 12 volts to it. It operates as it should with no binding that I can tell. Might be different under extreme heat but that would be harder to test. TPS resistance moves smooth with no jumping. Again could be different under heat but hard to test. Cleaned all the grounds under the hood. Car ran good in 70 degree weather for one day, then the following day ran awful at noon when sun was out and temp was in the 80's Since I reset the ECU, I have not been able to get another code. I plugged the 2 black wires together, I think those are used for view stored codes and have not been cleared. Is there anything else I should replace or anything else I can test/check for to find the issue? Someone at her work mentioned it could be the ECU overheating but I think those are located inside the car under the glovebox which should stay cool being inside the car, so I kinda doubt that but I could be wrong
    1 point
  4. why do you need a new engine? what specifically is wrong? have you tried looking on car-part.com?
    1 point
  5. Thanks for the insight Bennie. I am going to try and work on that throttle cable next I think. I was out of town for a week but I finally finished the fuel gauge diagnostic. The cluster itself was bad, and not sending 12v out of the right half. everything else was working properly besides that. Replaced the cluster with one out of a loyale and the gauge started working correctly. Now to decide if my I want to reuse my sending unit or if I am should try and pull a used one. The sending unit works.... but the resistance readings are kind of intermittent and the float feels loose at the point of contact. This project is going to take a while to finish with my availability but one small thing at a time and it will get done.
    1 point
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