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You’re right - not likely axles and outer joint symptoms are more common amd typically noisy. But inner joints are more symptomatically varied than outers and can exhibit symptoms without noise and before outers. It happens. I’ve seen it. And If they’re after market - they don’t need wear to be garbage they just need to be installed !! lol bad inner joints, or inners with old liquified or low grease (one common issue with new aftermarket axles) can cause shaking at specific speeds, driving straight, and no noise. “steering wheel shaking” can be ambiguous in terms of being more the drivers experience or the axle/wheel or vehicle chassis. not a bad idea to consider given they’ve been chasing this already and our incomplete history/feeedback about the car.

have the rear bushings on the LCA been inspected?

Do some have a policy that they warranty DIY installs? I’ve never seen a JDM engine supplier that, as an official policy, will warranty a DIY install. If an employee says it via email or phone that they will, that adhoc comment for expediency to make the sale may not stand in the event a warranty claim if it’s counter to policy. And if you have a some kind of repoire with them, you may get warranty replacement without proof of their requirements. But usually their *official policy* (though it’s not always followed) is no warranty for DIY install. Ive seen various damaged connectors due to their exposure during shipping. Newer engines are worse with all their oil solenoids, vacuum pumps, etc. I just splice in from engine being replaced. Easy. I’d look for it like you said but I wouldnt rule every engine out without a compression test. Def worth doing but statistically it’s a low enough chance I would still buy it if there’s other compelling reasons to do so.

I have...and I definitely have some advice. Make sure you buy from an importer who doesn't require the engine to be put in by a mechanic to have a valid warranty. #1 most important. Make sure they do compression tests and ask for the results. If you go that route plan to swap your intake over to the new motor. I wouldn't worry about wiring necessarily unless they cut wires on the engine side as with the lower mileage they are likely in better condition than original. However many will go with the intake anyway. If you are not sure what kind of issue your engine is having and it is possible it's a fuel delivery issue. Then buy some remanufactured/cleaned and flowmatched injectors and install them. The JDM ones are likely clogged from drying fuel. Change the valve cover gaskets and sparkplugs before install. Check that the flywheel or flexplate bolts are torqued to spec. Plan on doing a full timing belt and water pump. Probably not a bad idea to pull the oil pan, inspect for dents, make sure the oil pickup tube seal is good. They are often left sitting on the oil pan for long periods of time and it can be damaged.

Ok so my cousins will get it...

Have not replaced PCV valve and no to the EGR

I've bought one, and plan to buy a couple more. I just bought on eBay, paid with a Credit Card through PayPal. This gives me 3 separate avenues for accountability/charge dispute. Read the sellers feedback history, make sure they have a decent history, and have been selling engines for some time (I noticed at least one seller that had a decent rating, but almost exclusively on small parts...). Best practice is to swap the intake manifold and all wiring over from the old engine. The link that @idosubaruposted is for a bare, new shortblock. This will have a 1 year warranty. Call your local dealership and ask about remanufactured shorblocks. These are about the same price, but come with oil pan, pump, water pump, thermostat, etc, and come with a 3 year 36k mile warranty.

the rust will kill that car long before anything else will if it is properly maintained and yeah, and 110k that car still has many more miles in it. i have purchased used Subarus with 200k plus on them and driven for years. at this point, your top priority should be timing belt/pulleys if it has not been done yet. as in as soon as possible.

Search for the AISIN part number: TKF-001 https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/aisin,TKF001,timing+belt%2C+water+pump+&+component+kit,16088

Not trying to Hi-Jack, but have an '89 Wagon 650 miles south, in Las Cruces NM area. 5 speed 4 x 4. Weathered paint and sun damaged interior plastics, vinyls, etc. Very Clean underneath. Maybe both of these Cars can be put together? Will Sell it for $400 without the Engine and Five Speed or $600 with. With All remaining '85 - '94 Compatible parts - $1000. There is a Title.

I had a '98 Legacy wagon for a long time. It was a great car- wish I never sold it last year. I replaced it with a 2006 Forester that began overheating 2 weeks after I got it and has spent more time at the mechanic than with me.