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That cars future issues will be if the headgaskets weren’t done well and having the original or aftermarket timing belt and pulleys. All of which are far more problematic than Subaru 4EAT auto transmissions. I’d install new subaru/AISIN timing kit. $300-$400 in parts. If you don’t want to put the money in it, install a new Subaru belt and Subaru lower cogged idler. inspect the tensioner and other pulleys (just spin them and see how much grease is still in them). If you can DIY small things you can do those two items in an hour. they cost $100 and are the most likely items to fail due to being aftermarket or never replaced which that low idler rarely is.

it does get driven twice a week up and down the driveway we use it to pull the trash cans up the hill as well. pulleys are decent looking no rust in the groove sections. it was another used belt. i have something like 10 of them around.

This is another one I was meaning to post about ages ago. This swap is into a Williams Wildcat skid steer tractor. Pretty cool piece of kit. From factory it ran the Wisconsin V4 - a popular stationary workhorse engine of that era. Not easy to get parts for over here these days… so what’s an alternative? Throw an EA81 above the location of the old engine with a solid shaft connecting the two hydraulic pumps that are mounted on either side of the engine, directly to its crankshaft. This one utilises a belt to deliver power from the flywheel to the hydraulic pumps: Pics borrowed from here: https://austrak-wildcat.com/wildcat-mods/ And this is the Williams Wildcat: The V4 in place: front view, seat is an addition: Above two pics from here: https://austrak-wildcat.com/2013/05/25/alans-incredible-wildcat/amp/ Very low centre of gravity gave it an edge on inclines, you can drive one of these across the sides of hills that would be considered dicey at best in a regular tractor. Great for slashing hillsides with. If anyone happens to be visiting Melbourne in Oz, head over to Spotswood Science works - they have what I think is the last one off the production line in one of their display sheds. Many of them were construction yellow, which is what this last example is painted in. That’s it for me and creating/swapping Subaru engines into bits of machinery. Now curious if anyone else has any to share, given the lack of responses so far I’m guessing it’s a pretty rare thing to do! Cheers Bennie

They look like wave spring washers maybe? https://duckduckgo.com/?q=wave+spring+washers&iax=images&ia=images

hey, you stayed with and got it going. kudos

if you can get specs, maybe there's something off-the-shelf that will work?

I have tried 2 of the international wholesalers like that. Came back as not available. They all show 6 available. I think they capture that data from Subaru someplace, but when they go to order, they are not available and I get a refund. I guess I need to find some old junkyard engines and pull the rockers. But it appears that these are not 'critical' to the engine.

I'm with you 100% on that. My 95's alloys make me One Posh Bitch. If I had that Eye-talian car I'd mos def feel broke-@ss ghetto.

Second this. If the previous two were composite gaskets and you're going to MLS, definitely have the heads resurfaced.

1.added 6 ounces to the overflow or the radiator? 2. Did any spray out and how low was the radiator (not the overflow tank) after the overheating event? 3. Was it bubbling or boiling and do you know the difference? 4. what brand headgaskets and were the heads resurfaced? 5. Does it have a new Subaru thermostat and radiator cap? This is unlikely but you indicate “no issues” and then experience overheating 9 miles after working on the cooling system. The only thing you did was (maybe - see question #1) remove the radiator cap. So maybe the radiator cap is suspect. Though I’ve found Subaru radiator caps fairly robust even when they’ve deteriorated and they’re symptoms usually obvious but when all we have is text to go on…. Heres the two diagnosis's you’re looking at: A: It was low due to a slow external leak, tstat, or rad cap failure. Pressure test is the next step. It overheated due to being low and you saw boiling, not “bubbling” in the EJ25 exhaust gas sense. B. head gaskets. A liquid test was used for hydrocarbons and those are notoriously inaccurate. If he used a $$$$$$$$ exhaust gas analyzer then he should test it again The bubbles are very damning evidence but pressure testing for leaks is excellent move on the mechanics part due to the ambiguity of “bubbles and boiling” and unknowns about how quickly it’s loosing coolant or not and wether that is a causation or correlation to Overheating. 6 ounces low isn’t enough to overheat but again answer question #1.

While you are 100% correct - it's a life skill that any self respecting man, woman, gear-head, etc should learn. So owning one for a while is a good choice. GD

For what it's worth I've now read that all the wiring should be there, module is different between manual and automatic.

if the crank sprocket is in the correct position, on the timing mark, the pistons are at the half way position and there is no possibility of pistons bending valves. turning cams by hand, you would have to be very forceful to do some damage. valves bending valves is possible, i guess, but not likely, i don't think. (please correct me if i'm wrong.) and since the nature of the cams is to "close" the valves, the tendency is to "avoid" damage. having said this, is it possible that you could force the cams around and cause a problem, probably, but if you set it up as it should be before you remove the belt and do not mess around with the cams too much while hanging the new one you should be ok. lots of first timers have done this successfully. just make sure you are using the correct timing marks and you should be ok. there are links below in my signature to some great pictures and articles for a timing belt change. read up and have fun. if you have more questions , ask.